|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Rick Thompson and Scott Garso April '86|
|Submitted By:||Ladd Raine on May 24, 2007|
|Comments on Riding the Crest of a Wave||Add Comment|
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From: Durham, NC
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Thompson guidebook beta seems way off for this route. First off, whatever pine tree way there at the time Thompson wrote his guide in 1997 has since bit it and was no where to be found. We were not able to locate a small pine tree anywhere. The beginning of the route description seems correct, but once you get up to the face on P1, it is tough to tell where to go. Either you have an unprotected slab move that goes ~10a, with serious ledge out potential, or you follow the bolt line to the left (3 blots for the slab - off route??). Firing straight up the face below the P1 boltted anchors could be protected with a single bolt (our second took this path), rather than the several bolts that take you out left.
P2 is definitely the money pitch, with stemming moves to get above the roof that give you fantastic exposure. P2 is actually the shorter of the two pitches, contrary to the guide instructions.
If we did this again, we might break it up into three short pitches to avoid rope drag: P1 to the first major ledge. P2 following the bolt line up the right-facing dihedral and traverse to the bolted anchors. P3 up and right through the roof to top out.
No fixed anchors at the top, other than some old mank on a single tree to the right of the final pitch. We topped off and down-climbed to the Upheaval cold shuts to get back down.
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three of us made a smooth ascent of this route on 9/21/2014 and wanted to add some beta to this page. I wasnt able to match the description of the route from the Williams' guidebook with the actual rock face yet, after much deliberation and trying to look at the route from different ground-up vantage points, we were able to do the following.
Note: There are anchors on Pitch 1 and you can safely climb with a single rack (0.3-3), stoppers, and plenty of long runners.
Orient yourself by locating a pair of hand-fist cracks in the middle of the face about 35' up directly between the massive diheadral on the left and the face's arete on the right. PITCH 1: Make your way up to these cracks by climbing the blocky corner to a ledge. Jam and stem your way through the pair of cracks to a bird poop covered ledge. From here, traverse the ledge towards the bolt. Clip the bolt (1 of 3) and climb the path of least resistance clipping the next two. By now youll be near the arete and hopefully can see the anchor shuts. Make a final series of moves towards the anchor and belay here. PITCH 2: Make your way 5-10 feet to the right and you'll find yourself below a 25' clean and sexy corner. Find good edges and stem your way up to the end of the corner and move left to make some seriously stellar and exposed moves high off the ground. Finish straight up and belay off a tree. Descent: Rapping here will require you to leave an anchor and use two ropes. Otherwise you may be able to find bolted anchors on adjacent climbs or always be able to walk back to the ladders.