Two Pitches, one of the only in the NRG.
P1: Begin 10 ft left of outside corner, and under a ledge. work up and left towards a small pine on a ledge.
P2: From right edge of ledge climb an arete then head up to a flake then to another flake, head up final corner, and roof step left place pro and finish by going up and right above the roof on the face above.
This is a Classic Line!!!
Between Idol Point and Kaymoor Slab
From: Durham, NC
Oct 6, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c
The Thompson guidebook beta seems way off for this route. First off, whatever pine tree way there at the time Thompson wrote his guide in 1997 has since bit it and was no where to be found. We were not able to locate a small pine tree anywhere. The beginning of the route description seems correct, but once you get up to the face on P1, it is tough to tell where to go. Either you have an unprotected slab move that goes ~10a, with serious ledge out potential, or you follow the bolt line to the left (3 blots for the slab - off route??). Firing straight up the face below the P1 boltted anchors could be protected with a single bolt (our second took this path), rather than the several bolts that take you out left.
P2 is definitely the money pitch, with stemming moves to get above the roof that give you fantastic exposure. P2 is actually the shorter of the two pitches, contrary to the guide instructions.
If we did this again, we might break it up into three short pitches to avoid rope drag: P1 to the first major ledge. P2 following the bolt line up the right-facing dihedral and traverse to the bolted anchors. P3 up and right through the roof to top out.
No fixed anchors at the top, other than some old mank on a single tree to the right of the final pitch. We topped off and down-climbed to the Upheaval cold shuts to get back down.