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 ADVANCED
Chica Bonita Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Blue Eyes S 
Be My Yoko Ono T 
Bessie S 
Brown Eyed Girl S 
Cheaper Than a Movie T 
Colt 45 S 
Dude Abides, The S 
Flying The Bird S 
Hellava Caucasian S 
Hot Drama Teacher S 
I'll Take Sue S 
King Cobra S 
Laying Pipe under the Bridge T 
Mary Pop-Parazzi S 
Old English S 
Pocahontas Path S 
Raindancer S 
Ridin' the Short Buzz S 
Rinse and Repeat T 
She Might be a Liar S 
Size Doesn't Matter S 
Spice of Life, The T 
That's What She Said S 
When Rats Attack S 
You Take Sally S 
Unsorted Routes:

Ridin' the Short Buzz 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jared Hancock, Karla Hancock, Mark Ryan, Jenny Ryan
Page Views: 639
Submitted By: Ben Rollin on Oct 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Description 

This route is the best warm up around. Start on smaller holds and reach to better jugs as you go up. Interesting movements, and the holds only get larger as you climb. Well protected.

Location 

About 15 feet right of Hot Drama Teacher, on face around the corner from The Dude Abides.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolted anchors. ** Since at least November, 2009, the left anchor point has been loose. Currently only one ring to clip/rappel from as well. Right anchor point appears solid however.


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By S. Neoh
Oct 21, 2012

As of Oct 2012, the left anchor bolt and hanger move down by a 1/4" under load. The single steel rap ring is attached directly to this hanger. There is a backup chain from the upper hanger to this rap ring. I added a biner to a link in the chain to provide redundancy. The added biner should take more of the load if the rope is threaded through BOTH the rap ring and the added biner.
I have also reported the bad anchor bolt at redriverclimbing.com
By Mat D.
Mar 24, 2015

I just climbed this route a few days ago. When I weighted my rope to rappel down after cleaning, I definitely noticed that left anchor bolt move, like S. Neoh mentioned. It hasn't fallen out yet, but neither has it been replaced. The other anchor bolt is still solid though.
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