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Ridge of Bliss
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Gary Wolfarth & Jason Foote Summer 2006 |
Page Views: | 3,607 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | J Foote on Dec 13, 2006 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
P1: Start in a left-facing corner [one bolt]. Continue up easy (runout) slab to bushy ramp. Climb the roof above to chains. 120'
P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof. Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts. Continue up corner to roof. Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-
P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts. Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!
P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof. No pro. 60'
P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner. Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins. Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney. 200'
P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware! Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab. Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.
P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner. After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack. Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'
P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower. Rap station in trees. 120'
This route was established ground up.
P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof. Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts. Continue up corner to roof. Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-
P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts. Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!
P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof. No pro. 60'
P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner. Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins. Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney. 200'
P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware! Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab. Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.
P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner. After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack. Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'
P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower. Rap station in trees. 120'
This route was established ground up.
Location
Approach: Park at the Grist Mill (.06 miles up from sign) Just below the Wasatch Resort is an old bridge abutments (approx. 400 yards down the trail) Cross the river here and head straight up the wash. Pick up a bouldering trail winding uphill. Pass the "Prime Rib" boulder and continue up and right on faint trail to base of climb. Approx. 20 minutes. During spring runoff it is impossible to cross the creek. You can cross higher up the canyon and traverse into the Wasatch Resort Bouldering Area and then continue up to the climb.
Descent: From the top of the 4:20 ledge it is possible to rap into the drainage to the west for an easy walkoff. Start from northern point of ledge for two raps to the west from fixed anchors. 110' and 70'. Thrash down to the main gully until you reach an impassable cliff. Traverse right (upcanyon) following the buttress edge back to the base of the climb. Approx. 15 minutes from rappel.
Descent: From the top of the 4:20 ledge it is possible to rap into the drainage to the west for an easy walkoff. Start from northern point of ledge for two raps to the west from fixed anchors. 110' and 70'. Thrash down to the main gully until you reach an impassable cliff. Traverse right (upcanyon) following the buttress edge back to the base of the climb. Approx. 15 minutes from rappel.
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