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Ride the Lightning
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British C1+
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Gold Star Canyon
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Bottle Top - Bouncing Betty Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bottle Top: North Face Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1 |
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Cirqus Voltaire T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Factotum T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ride the Lightning T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1+ |
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Ship of Fools T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 |
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Skin Industries T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Uncle Sam S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Unknown/?CCC? Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,656 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Zacher on Oct 1, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Great positioning! Free climbing, aid, a little choss, great exposure, and some good rock. A good outing for sure.
First pitch: is a some loose offwidth to a cool stem between wall and pillar to gain the Ledge. (130 feet)
Second pitch: Some C1+ off the belay to a widening crack, switch crack systems as a crack appears on your right. Watch out for a loose section midway up. 5.10 offwidth to a stance/ledge (70 feet)
Third pitch: Place a piece high up off the belay and pendulum right to a crack system. Climb hands up an ever widening crack to the base of the roof. Grovel up some wideness through the roof. Continue up the wide until a small ledge and a short corner to the top. (5.10+, 110 feet)
All of this could go free fairly easily.
First pitch: is a some loose offwidth to a cool stem between wall and pillar to gain the Ledge. (130 feet)
Second pitch: Some C1+ off the belay to a widening crack, switch crack systems as a crack appears on your right. Watch out for a loose section midway up. 5.10 offwidth to a stance/ledge (70 feet)
Third pitch: Place a piece high up off the belay and pendulum right to a crack system. Climb hands up an ever widening crack to the base of the roof. Grovel up some wideness through the roof. Continue up the wide until a small ledge and a short corner to the top. (5.10+, 110 feet)
All of this could go free fairly easily.
Location
This route lies on the opposite wall as Factotum. After hiking up the trail on the right side of the granite drainage, keep trending towards the right wall of the Gold Star Canyon. On a clean section of the wall, the large pillar is obvious as is the crack systems that split the wall. Start on the left side of the detached pillar.
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