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Ride the Lightning 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Samet
Page Views: 1,099
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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DTP using the undercling that broke to gain the si...

Description 

Progressively more difficult climbing through tthe first half broken up by jug pockets. Big moves to an OK rest then a final boulder problem to the anchors.

Start up a low angle slab to the left of the bolt line. Reach out and clip the first bolt then move up into some slots and a pinch on a block, clip bolt 2. Thin face climbing leads to the 3rd clip. Move up on some very small holds and very technical moves leads to a hard stand up and stab for the next good 2 finger pocket and the 4th clip, or an all out jump. Some big moves up on sidepulls and underclings takes one to the 5th clip and a rest. Move to the right with some big moves on positive holds and the 6th bolt. A final commiting big move takes one up to the anchors.

This seemed as hard as or harder than Sinister Dane 5.13b to me, so if Sinister Dane is 5.13b then so is this. Crux sequence might be V7 preceded with a bit of difficult climbing and followed by some big moves to a poor rest to some more difficult climbing.


Location 

Pretty much the center line of the sport climbs on the wall. Lots of chalk most of the time. Left of the project with the obvious glue.


Protection 

6 bolts and chain anchors.



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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 1, 2011
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c

If this was 13a to the original set of anchors than to the current anchors with the additional boulder problem justifies 13b. There are now 7 bolts making the last move much less committing, you may even find yourself wanting to skip the last bolt on redpoint.

By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Feb 13, 2011

Today a hold broke in the crux.

What was the V7 crux with a tricky sequence that used an angled undercling is now an unknown grade after the undercling broke off. There are some unusable remnants of the undercling and after trying the crux many different ways we were unable to put it together. It will still go but it's going to be at least a letter grade harder and more temperature dependent.

While I'm somewhat happy NM gained another hard 13, I'm pretty bummed I missed my send by 5 minutes. I had worked this to an easy one-hang over 7 goes and was confident I would get it next run but ol' Dirty went and broke a hold off a 20 year old climb. Balls.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Feb 14, 2011

Hey Wes, look at it this way, now you can work it out and get the re-FA...and for what it is worth I don't remember using any underclings through the "crux" section, maybe up higher on the steeper juggy climbing.

By thomas ellis
From: abq
Feb 14, 2011

Maybe it's harder but there were always three sequences through the crux (maybe more) so I am not sure the grade will change. Luke, being tall stepped right and lunged for the jug and claimed it was easier. I found the crimp fest more to my liking. Just saying, lots of variations over the past twenty years.

By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Feb 14, 2011

Interesting. Everybody I know used the slanting undercling. Those that didn't couldn't ever pull the move - but yes there are a ton of options through that section... they just all feel much harder than the previous sequence! - as I said, I couldn't pull through it at all. Never tried a lunge from the right. Well if y'all think 13b with the crimps maybe I'll go back and give it another go.

By thomas ellis
From: abq
Feb 14, 2011

Yeah Wes, like I said I am not sure if the grade is the same. I did the lunge on the dog but sent with the crimps. With the lunge it is definitely lower percentage. Good luck and I hope you get it!