"...My fingers grip with fear, what am I doing here? Flash before my eyes, now it's time to die." Okay, this may a bit too intense to be an accurate description of the route, but it is an excerpt from the tune in which the route was named after. Although this line is safe, it does have the potential for some good air time.
This route is easily one of the best and most sustained single pitch face routes of this grade at the Bald. It is slightly harder than "Thunderstruck" just to the left.
Undercling the loose flake feature to reach a good hold and clip the high bolt. Move right and mantel into a hole feature and clip 2nd bolt. Crimp (crux?) to the small ledge and get some gear. Step right and move up to a good hold and 3rd bolt. Move up and slightly left of bolt on thin terrain to a long reach that gains a good ledge. Move right and mantel up onto ledge to 4th bolt. Continue up a little ways on easier climbing past horizontals (gear) to the last bolt. Make slopey moves up past the bolt before trending out left past some small gear and finally the anchor.
Just right of Thunderstruck, up on the Lightning ledge. These bolt hangers are painted grey.
Medium sized rack. It is possible to use up to a #3 camelot in a slot above the 3rd bolt.
From: western NC
Nov 1, 2013
This is one of the best face climbs in hickory nut gorge (along with a ton of others on this wall), too bad this crag remains closed...
A great friend belaying the ''pirate''- the late Lee Carter.