Hannah Marshall climbing Ride the Lightning late a...
A classic and committing intro to the grade. Squat start with an obvious jug (flexes so pull down) and a right foot way out right and pop up to the crack with your right hand. Bring your left hand up and match in the crack. Step up to the starting jug and cross right hand to next crimp (bad). Left hand to bad undercling, then move feet, bump left hand to crimp below topout, move up feet into the crack and grab those slopers. Moving from the crack to the crimps and then the lip is the short crux. Get a heel and mantle for all you're worth. Make sure you climb up the back side to brush off pine needles. Not to be missed.
Obvious up and left-slanting crack with heinous, committing topout.
Bring spotters and pads (both plural for a reason).
I've always found the topout to be quite easy, but I won't deny that it's totally committing. Hang from the slopers with your wrists on the lip, get a heel as deep as you can, and just roll over. The topouts on Monkey Press and Zap (both V3) seem more difficult.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Jun 20, 2008 rating: V6-7A
I agree w/ Mr. Dalhaus. Really fun problem (easier if you're 5'10" or taller) but I think the mantle is easier than it's reputation would lead you to believe. Just trust your heel!
By Eric8 From: Framingham Sep 7, 2010 rating: V56C
Agreed, the mantle is scary but not hard. If the moves up to the lip are only v4 then the problem is only v4...I found them a little harder then that.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Nov 22, 2010 rating: V6-7A
Did the variation/direct finish yesterday (After first move, undercling the crack and make a long reach with the right to a crimp. Bryce, did you mention this? Can't remember where I heard about it). Probably a touch harder than the classic version, though I didn't think it was quite as fun either.
By BDalhaus Administrator From: Manchester, NH Nov 22, 2010 rating: V6-7A
By Sam Owens From: Durham, New Hampshire May 2, 2012
Video of RTL! Some sweet footage in the dark, no sends but some cool falls
By Lucas79 From: Malden, MA Sep 13, 2012 rating: V4-56B+
Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.
By ekelsey From: Mattapoisett Mar 10, 2013 rating: V67A
Lucas with a whopping sandbag, can't say it's less than a 6 in my opinion (soft if you want to call it that)