Mountain Project: Climbing Pawtuckaway

A classic and committing intro to the grade. Squat start with an obvious jug (flexes so pull down) and a right foot way out right and pop up to the crack with your right hand. Bring your left hand up and match in the crack. Step up to the starting jug and cross right hand to next crimp (bad). Left hand to bad undercling, then move feet, bump left hand to crimp below topout, move up feet into the crack and grab those slopers. Moving from the crack to the crimps and then the lip is the short crux. Get a heel and mantle for all you're worth. Make sure you climb up the back side to brush off pine needles. Not to be missed.

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Comments displayed oldest to newest — Skip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2013

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Mar 8, 2008
rating: V6

its routes like this that make me want to climb v7 or v6

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Apr 2, 2008
rating: V6-

I've always found the topout to be quite easy, but I won't deny that it's totally committing. Hang from the slopers with your wrists on the lip, get a heel as deep as you can, and just roll over. The topouts on Monkey Press and Zap (both V3) seem more difficult.

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jun 20, 2008
rating: V6-

I agree w/ Mr. Dalhaus. Really fun problem (easier if you're 5'10" or taller) but I think the mantle is easier than it's reputation would lead you to believe. Just trust your heel!

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Apr 21, 2009
rating: V6

so i was out at pway last week and was watchin a bunch of guys get on this route... it really doesnt look so bad... scary factor wise at least :) i really wanna get on it!... WHOSE WITH ME! :)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 21, 2009

I am down to try it sometime we should meet up for a day in pway

By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Sep 4, 2009

this climb feels easier and easier the more times you do it and use the beta thats right for you

By Daryl St. Laurent
Oct 15, 2009

video of me falling off the mantle:

By Eric8
From: boston
Sep 7, 2010
rating: V5

Agreed, the mantle is scary but not hard. If the moves up to the lip are only v4 then the problem is only v4...I found them a little harder then that.

By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Nov 22, 2010
rating: V6-

Did the variation/direct finish yesterday (After first move, undercling the crack and make a long reach with the right to a crimp. Bryce, did you mention this? Can't remember where I heard about it). Probably a touch harder than the classic version, though I didn't think it was quite as fun either.

By BDalhaus
Administrator
From: Manchester, NH
Nov 22, 2010
rating: V6-

The Three Graces

By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 7, 2011

Send of ride the lightning at about 3:40:

By Sam Owens
From: Durham, New Hampshire
May 2, 2012

Video of RTL! Some sweet footage in the dark, no sends but some cool falls

By Lucas79
From: Everett, MA
Sep 13, 2012
rating: V4-5

Once you figure out the footwork it's not that bad....just technical. No move harder than V4. I'm 5.8 and didn't have to use that garbage undercling beta....just look for a small toejam to get through that section. Fun top out.

By ekelsey
From: Mattapoisett
Mar 10, 2013
rating: V6

Lucas with a whopping sandbag, can't say it's less than a 6 in my opinion (soft if you want to call it that)

Ride the Lightning

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