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Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)
The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up (a MANTLE on a 5.10c!?) and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.
This route begins far to the right of Fantasy and Aesthetica, and you have to climb up a 4-5 ft. boulder to get to the base of it when approaching from those climbs. You'll see it before you round the corner, so Aesthetica will still be in sight. It's to the right of The Orgasmatron which has a beautiful splitter in the middle of the face.
8 bolts and a red or yellow alien. For those of you who don't own an alien, yellow is about the same size as a .3 camalot.
|By A Terray|
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 26, 2011
Warning, if you're 5'5" or shorter, the move between first and second bolt is solid 5.11+ at a minimum and has groundfall potential if you don't stick a cam in the horizontal right below it. I normally don't have too much trouble on reaches because I just work my feet up higher than tall people have to. I was a good 2" short of reaching a key hold here - feet were as high as I could get them. This move was significantly harder than any of the 11s that I had climbed nearby. If your 5'8" or taller, this MAY go at 10c, hard to know. Upper crux felt like 10+/11- to me.
From: Raleigh, NC
Apr 9, 2012
I almost gave this the bomb rating because a cam between the first and second bolts is absolutely essential, but mentioned nowhere in the guidebook. If that move was any more 10c, it would be 12a! Without gear, a fall would lead to a nasty groundfall or at the very least a hard pendulum right into your belayer. Can't speak on the rest of the climb... I didn't want to risk the fall and left my gear over by Black&Tan, so I downclimbed.