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Rick Krispie Treat 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Erik Stacia 2009
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Dec 4, 2010
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Description 

The slightly overhanging scoop just right of Peanut Brittle.

4 bolts lead up a rather blank face on crimps and crystals. Finish on Peanut Brittle.

This route has great movement and solid rock. Unfortunately, it seems rather contrived -- at the crux, the holds on the left side keep tempting you to move left and onto Peanut Brittle (5.9).


Location 

Just right of Peanut Brittle. No trees at the base of this one.


Protection 

Draws



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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 5, 2010

Correct route name is Rick Krispie Treat(5.12b/c) and FA is Erik Stacia/2009. Topo will be updated soon! Cheers..da

By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2010

Fixed!

Left as solid 5.12, I figure that's the same and we can let people rate it and settle on something.

By erik hamilton
Feb 25, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

the name is Rice Krispie treats it has 5 bolts. the FA was done by Erik Hamilton. 12- for a rating.

By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 26, 2011

Glad the climb is there. It was nice to have a harder climb to do.

Did this route a while back. On the onsight I zig zagged a bit which included a desperate move left over to Peanut Brittle then more hard climbing back right to move up and finish the climb. On the way down I top-roped the section where I went left and was able to move up without going left and it was easier. I thought it would be hard to clip one of the bolts by going that way.

This is fine tuning and I know it is only a four or five bolt direct start but I throw it out to give the guys that put it up some input on ways to improve future climbs they establish. My suggestion would be to move a bolt or two more to the right. (bakerize) This would lead people in this direction more naturally so as a climber I would not be asking myself 'is this hold on route'

By qGracey
From: Estes Park
Mar 11, 2011

I am confused by this continuous moving of bolts, climbing into other climbs talk. While sport climbing is enjoyable and challenging at times, isn't it a bit contrived to move a bolt to keep a climber from merging into another climb? Instead of scarring the rock for some arbitrary climb, how about a little more forethought before bolting (like actually being able to climb the route, which some people are unable to do, but they bolt anyway), leave it the way it is, or just move on.....

By 1Eric Rhicard
Mar 12, 2011

Hey Q, doesn't matter if you can climb it or not bolts get put in the wrong place now and then. Bolts sometimes lead you in a direction that is easier and sometimes they don't. As I said setting them up so they lead a climber in one direction or another is fine tuning and on the best routes isn't necessary. The impact of moving a bolt is miniscule compared to the impact people that drive/fly all around the country or world to climb have on our environment. Nice photo album.