BETA PHOTO: Shadows make it look like more of an OW than it re...
Short, but maybe my favorite route at Snowshed. Well spaced fists and hands in pods, then a respite of jugs to a cave. Plug some stuff into the roof, get the feet high, and make a blind(ish) reach right to escape. Finish by stepping back left and heading up to the chains...Fun, fun, fun!!!!
You can just barely see the blocky top of this route in Carville's "East Face" topo that shows Sanitation Crack, Pump Lust, etc. (p. 48). It's up that same gully on the left wall.
Nothing too big necessary. Small cams for the roof are helpful. Two bolts with chains at the top (which are easy to get to from above for a toprope, if you're so inclined).
Steep and wide, this climb is literally a hidden classic concealed within the big chimney (great to escape summer heat and crowds). For variety and physicality, this climb delivers. I found myself pulling face moves to handstacks. Awesome!
I used pro from yellow alien sized (fingers), to a single #4. I believe I used only a #3 camalot and #4 camalot for as wide as the climbing gets, but doubles to #3 may be desirable.
Oh yeah, and don't dab the start by stemming back! You will only be cheating yourself!
By Weston L From: Summerlin, NV Jul 26, 2012 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b
A bit dirty but a good climb. Typical snowshed in both steepness and variety. That roof is tricky.