This climb starts in a nice left facing corner with a finger sized crack. About 30 feet up you can get a rest at the large horizontal break. After the horizontal break, continue up the corner with fragile rock and small gear until you get to the base of the roof. Place some gear and go right out the roof using underclings and some small footholds. Once at the end of the roof pull into steep hand jams, and crank your way to the anchor. This route would be really sick if it had more traffic.
This route is in the middle of the cliff at the area known as Midway.
Locate the sick looking right facing corner known as "Finlay Crack" and go right down the cliff about 20 yards or so, look for the left facing corner with an undercling roof section that goes to the right(about halfway up the cliff). This is your route.
One set of nuts and a double set of cams from the smallest you've got to #2 camalots, and 1 #3. I placed one RP so bring some of those.
|By Darren in Vegas|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 5, 2010
This route would be really awesome with more traffic. We knocked a lot of loose rock off of this route, so the belayer should wear a helmet, and be very attentive. However, the rock is quite solid through the crux so if you are solid on crumbly 5.10 and decent at 5.11, you might like this thing. It will be three stars when cleaned up.