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Rich and Famous Towers
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Team Cuz 2012 |
| Page Views: | 2,031 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Harrison on Dec 24, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A sweet twin tower way back in Mormon Canyon. Cool route with fun climbing, interesting route finding and not all that hard.
Pitch 1 Boulder up into a gully/crack. Climb awkward hands to changing corner fists to OW to roof. Belay from bolt and gear at lower edge of ledge, poor gear and rock higher on ledge. 5.10+, 140 feet.
Pitch 2 Either layback the wide crack on the left or climb the hands to finger crack on right, traversing into the wide crack after ~30 feet. Either way, continue up crack to OW with face holds to belay by some blocks on a ledge. Without a big cam, a bit runout, but not too hard or scary 5.9 PG 13, 100 feet.
Pitch 3 Climb left to a left angling finger crack, follow up to a ledge and either layback the wide flake (#5 camalot), or face climb left past a left facing flake. Runner this part wisely, belay at rap station, 5.9,70 feet.
Pitch 4 Move belay left 20 feet on big ledge. Climb finger/thin hands to a diagonal crack. Traverse left past a finger crack and across a ledge to a roof below right facing dihedral with a hand crack in it, follow to notch. Belay from gear up on left of notch. 5.10, 75 feet.
Pitch 5 Rich Tower- From the notch boulder shelves with gear in horizontals, aiming for a 10 foot finger crack on right side of face. Above the crack go left to a bolt then up chickenheads to summit. Belay from rap station. 5.9+ PG 13, 115 feet.
Pitch 6 Rich Tower- Final pitch climbs the highest summit but the rock gets a little junky, the views are worth it though. Climb left from the upper notch to an easy crack. Belay from gear. 5.7, 50 feet. Rap is only one bolt, add one if you desire.
Pitch 5 Famous Tower- From the notch traverse the south side to moderate climbing with a few placements. Belay from tree or bolts. 5.8, 50 feet.
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