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Rice Krispies 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jon Nelson, Mark McKillup, sometime in the 1980s
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012
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Eric Hirst at the start of Rice krispies (5.10c).

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Description 

The flake just R or Strange Boar, sharing the same start. Listed in Sky Valley Rock and in the old Clint Cummins guide. Re-cleaned and top anchor replaced Feb/Mar 2012. Rated 10b in most guides, but the hollowness of the flake just below the anchors will give many leaders pause. Tread lightly as you pull the final roof, or bypass this with a couple delicate moves up chickenheads to the left.

Variation (Pork Fried Rice): 10c *** Continue past the anchors to join Strange Boar after its crux. An exciting and varied pitch.


Location 

Shares a starting belay with Strange Boar. See Baby Tapir for overview photo.


Protection 

Light rack to 3", including thin cams for the start.



Photos of Rice Krispies Slideshow Add Photo
Eric Hirst further up on Rice krispies (5.10c).
Eric Hirst further up on Rice krispies (5.10c).
Eric Hirst at the top of Rice krispies (5.10c), making a 5.10 traverse move into An act of strange boar (The Pork Fried Rice continuation). One can lower off from the anchors before doing this traverse.
Eric Hirst at the top of Rice krispies (5.10c), ma...
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Mar 26, 2012

Nice laybacking up a thin crack that widens to hands at the top.
It's short, but as it doesn't have any good rests (except a little stemming at the bottom), it will work your arms and fingers.

Also, the rock is really rough, so you might want to tape up your hands.