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BETA PHOTO: First bolt circled
You'll think somebody sprinkled Rice Krispies on this route when you get up to the grainy middle section. A heady lead or a fun toprope.
Climb the steep slab with thin pro, keeping your eyes open for tiny indentions that might hold sticky rubber.
Starts about 10' right of Crystal Lizard.
Sparse, small gear; aliens or microcams, maybe some brassies would work. Bolted anchors/rap rings.
By Jim Singletary
Oct 28, 2011
A taped hook protects the first hole. You can back it up with notional TCUs, depending on the foliage in the hole. The crux is about ten feet above the hole. It looks like someone tried to retrobolt the crux, but the bolt was chopped. A #2 slider nut protects the downward facing flake at mid height on the pitch. It feels more solid than the little TCU you can futz beside it. Long, easier run to either an overlap with a hand size cam straight up, or the second bolt on Crystal Lizard a bit left, then an easy run to the anchors.
Kenny Hibbits was amazing. This pitch terrified me.
By Bob Rotert
Dec 7, 2013
Kenny, was such a great personality and force on the climbing scene back then. He was a Stone mtn master.