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Foolproof Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Animal Magnetism T 
Buford's House of Liver S 
High Strung T 
Rice Cake Roof T 

Rice Cake Roof 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D. Katz 1982
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

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Rice Cake roof

Description 

The east face of Foolproof Tower is capped by a roof which is split by several crack systems; this takes the left-hand crack over the largest section of roof.

Start on High Strung and climb to about the midway point then cut right and follow a low-angled ramp/corner system until under the roof. Lauch out the roof using good jams to a crux lip encounter high above the desert floor. Descend by circling around to rap anchors atop High Strung.

Although the crux is brief the moves and the setting make this a climb to seek out if climbing at the grade. Those seeking a more sustained route should climb the face route right of High Strung (Animal Magnestism, 5.11a) which leads more or less directly to the upper crack.


Protection 

pro to 3"



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By Murf
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Used big holds and no jamming required. Working the lip is comical from below, but you have to be there to understand.

By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Oct 4, 2012

Hey Murf. I've been up to the roof 3 times now always escaping to the anchors on High Strung. What am I not seeing? I spent 10 minutes up there last time just trying to find a spot to jam or grab. Am I blind? The crack is sooo flaring. Any help would be great as I'm obsessed with getting this done. Thanks.

By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 5, 2012

Jon;..the climb is very short, and bloody hard;....it's tricky too;....go for it!.....