The east face of Foolproof Tower is capped by a roof which is split by several crack systems; this takes the left-hand crack over the largest section of roof.
Start on High Strung and climb to about the midway point then cut right and follow a low-angled ramp/corner system until under the roof. Lauch out the roof using good jams to a crux lip encounter high above the desert floor. Descend by circling around to rap anchors atop High Strung.
Although the crux is brief the moves and the setting make this a climb to seek out if climbing at the grade. Those seeking a more sustained route should climb the face route right of High Strung (Animal Magnestism, 5.11a) which leads more or less directly to the upper crack.
pro to 3"
|Comments on Rice Cake Roof
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
Used big holds and no jamming required. Working the lip is comical from below, but you have to be there to understand.
|By Jon Hartmann|
From: Ojai, CA
Oct 4, 2012
Hey Murf. I've been up to the roof 3 times now always escaping to the anchors on High Strung. What am I not seeing? I spent 10 minutes up there last time just trying to find a spot to jam or grab. Am I blind? The crack is sooo flaring. Any help would be great as I'm obsessed with getting this done. Thanks.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 5, 2012
Jon;..the climb is very short, and bloody hard;....it's tricky too;....go for it!.....