The east face of Foolproof Tower is capped by a roof which is split by several crack systems; this takes the left-hand crack over the largest section of roof.
Start on High Strung and climb to about the midway point then cut right and follow a low-angled ramp/corner system until under the roof. Lauch out the roof using good jams to a crux lip encounter high above the desert floor. Descend by circling around to rap anchors atop High Strung.
Although the crux is brief the moves and the setting make this a climb to seek out if climbing at the grade. Those seeking a more sustained route should climb the face route right of High Strung (Animal Magnestism, 5.11a) which leads more or less directly to the upper crack.
pro to 3"
Mar 12, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Used big holds and no jamming required. Working the lip is comical from below, but you have to be there to understand.
|By Jon Hartmann|
From: Ojai, CA
Oct 4, 2012
Hey Murf. I've been up to the roof 3 times now always escaping to the anchors on High Strung. What am I not seeing? I spent 10 minutes up there last time just trying to find a spot to jam or grab. Am I blind? The crack is sooo flaring. Any help would be great as I'm obsessed with getting this done. Thanks.
From: Joshua Tree, California
Oct 5, 2012
Jon;..the climb is very short, and bloody hard;....it's tricky too;....go for it!.....