Ribspuren 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | H. Weninger & B. Bell, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Sep 8, 2002 |
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Routes on Der Zerkle are closed from 1 April to 1 September MORE INFO >>>
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Description This climb is done either as a single pitch 5.8 or a two-pitch 5.10d, with the second pitch being "Happy Ending" which is listed [separately] on this site. The two pitches are so different in location, position, character, and grade that they are practically unrelated anyway.
To climb Ribspuren, get to the West side of Der [Zerkle] and find a thin attached flake near the ground, just north of the center of the west face. Climb up and right on this as a hand-traverse to reach a ledge. From the ledge, step right to climb pockets and face holds near a right-facing corner with a seam or two. This is not well protected to this point, and is proteced thereafter by large cams in pockets, which are solid, but somewhat sparse. Follow a line to the top of the cliff, stepping left of the right-facing feature at a bulge, and them back right.
Once on top, walk up and left (north) up the slab to find a good belay.
From there, one can climb "Happy Endings" (some 50' up hill) or descend via a walk off to the North. Be careful to avoid the poison ivy.
Protection Rositer calls this a thin crack. Don't let that [deceive] you though, the gear required is actually large cams in pockets. I used one each #3 and #4 Camalot at the cruxes, but could have used additional [pieces] in that same size range if I'd had them. Regardless, there will be some runout, particularly at the bottom.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 31, 2003
| There is an OK #2 Camalot in a pocket placement at the end of the opening traverse for your 1st piece of pro. A small Alien near the top is useful. |
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