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d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
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Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Ribs 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Hans Kraus and Bonnie Prudden, 1953
Page Views: 2,840
Submitted By: Adam Catalano on Apr 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Dave placing gear on Ribs

Description 

An easy face climb, passing many horizontals.

Approach: Use the access trail that heads up just where there Stairmaster reaches the Carriage Trail, a 4-minute walk from the Uberfall. At the cliff, walk left and locate Arch, a prominent rock arch above the East Trapps Connector Trail. Ribs starts at the prominent, hanging arete well below the right side of the arch.

P1: Gain the large arete from the side, then traverse over to the middle of the face on the right. Climb nearly a straight line up to the GT ledge, with one or two overhang moves just before the finish. 5.5, 130'. You can also stop at the bolted rap station at 80'; this is a common toproping spot for beginners and guided groups.

Descent: There are bolted rap stations at both 80' and the GT ledge.


Protection 

Cams of all sizes in horizontals. Pass one bong and rap chains midway up.



Photos of Ribs Slideshow Add Photo
easy face climbing, relaxed and fun.
easy face climbing, relaxed and fun.
Comments on Ribs Add Comment
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By micah richard
Aug 19, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 

As of 8-15-14. The right hand bolt on the very top rap anchor is loose/ moves sideways in hole. Maybe just need a wrench to tighten up. Maybe needs to be re drilled.

By Adam Catalano
From: Albany, New York
Apr 3, 2006

This climb goes straight up a rappel highway. Wear a helmet. The ledges above have loose rock and even a soft rope can hurt when it's tossed from 100'. Just ask my wife...

By CynthiaP
Oct 31, 2010

There is a VERY LARGE and VERY LOOSE rock about 5 ft below the GT ledge rappel station.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 3, 2011

The first pitch was a good face climb. Rappelers should exercise caution and practice etiquette. We had no problems today but can easily see how it could get out of hand. The climb veers you slightly right naturally, and that's in direct line with the rappel route.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 21, 2012

We did this as two pitches to the GT. the second half of the climb past the chains was nothing special and we'll probably just stop at the chains next time.

By CraigM
Apr 30, 2012

Both pitches eat tricams. Feet are all there, you just need to look :) The first ledge you rap onto from the 2nd pitch has a rock (2 ft wide x 1 ft high) just chilling there. VERY LOOSE! Be careful.

By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Sep 25, 2012

I just don't like this climb. There, I said it. (I don't know why I don't like it)

By Russ Keane
Nov 26, 2013

Boring, but it's a decent warm-up, or a stay-warm and busy while you are waiting for Arch. It gives you a good view of Arch as well. In fact as the description says, you can get over to the tree on Arch and keep going up. Or rappel from that tree, which is actually fun as well.

By minquatrails
Aug 3, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

The top quick links attached to the bolts are showing significant wear. The narrow stainless steel hangers are chewing through the softer quick link metal.

Not a fan of this route. Holds were sandy & pro seemed sketchy. Maybe I went off route?

By micah richard
Aug 19, 2014

The roof directly above the second set of chains (the third pitch of Calasthenic) goes at 5.7 and is a great way to finish up this route, if you're getting bored with 5.4.