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Routes in Northwest Slabs
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Bolted Arete T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cows are People Too T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Cows in Space T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Doctor Cow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Paint it Sad T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ribeye Flake T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sky Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Squid Skid T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stiffler's Mom T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Turbo Pup T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Yellow Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | T Moderson, Craig Leubben, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,238 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 3, 2010 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
A decent climb that mixes up nice edging with some fairly intimidating friction moves. Begin at the right side of a flake leaning against the wall directly beneath the hanging "ribeye flake" in the middle of the NW Slab.
P1 - Climb the right-facing corner and face to a belay at a juniper bush directly beneath the hanging Ribeye Flake. Good gear and easy climbing. 5.6, 80 feet.
P2 - The meat. Bite into a leftward traverse on significant edges, heading up through broken, slabby terrain toward a line of three bolts. Friction up the bolt line (5.8, intimidating) to reach lower-angle, more well-featured rock and a left-trending finger crack that deposits you on Cow Pie Ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.
P1 - Climb the right-facing corner and face to a belay at a juniper bush directly beneath the hanging Ribeye Flake. Good gear and easy climbing. 5.6, 80 feet.
P2 - The meat. Bite into a leftward traverse on significant edges, heading up through broken, slabby terrain toward a line of three bolts. Friction up the bolt line (5.8, intimidating) to reach lower-angle, more well-featured rock and a left-trending finger crack that deposits you on Cow Pie Ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.
Location
3rd class about 100 feet left of the base cairn and Sky Crack until you're directly beneath a dark, water-stained face and a large, hanging flake. Ribeye climbs an easy corner to a stance beneath the hanging flake, and then traverses left about 20 feet to follow a line of bolts through low-angle, friction-intensive terrain.
Protection
Three well-spaced bolts protect the crux of this climb. It wouldn't be at all unreasonable to simply solo the first pitch and forego building a belay at the juniper bush; the climbing is easier than the guidebook 5.6 up to this point. Regardless, QDs and a set of nuts will get you up this climb in style; bring some cams if you're so inclined.
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