|Type:||Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a C0 [details]|
|FA:||Ron Olevsky, solo, Feb. 1978, 5.8 A3|
|Submitted By:||Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007|
|Comments on Ribbed Buttress||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Mar 16, 2008
Just a litle more info on the route.
The second pitch climbs fingers in a right-facing corner then goes to hands for the last 25 feet in a left-facing corner.
Additionally, the 3rd pitch as described above can be done in two pitches. There is a two bolt anchor at the "rest." This way is probably more comfortable, unless you want to carry three 4s and a 3 through the 5.11 finger section, and leave your partner in a hanging belay for longer.
Further, the last half of pitch three, after the "rest", does involve offwidth and squeeze, not just fists. The upper half of the pitch is protected with bolts and drilled angles, so there is no need for protection larger than #4 C4s.
Really good route, the first half of the second pitch is mediocre, but the rest climbs good rock with great position.
By Stevie Nacho
Aug 30, 2015
|Just stumbled upon this route. This is a great solo clean aid route for those that don't mind yarding on etriers.|