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Ribbed Buttress
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British C1
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Fruita Canyon
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Balanced Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1- |
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Ballerina (right of Taper) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Book of Pleasure, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+ |
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Harvest Moon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Left of Special Verdict T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Oliver Perry Smith Buttress T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ribbed Buttress T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a C1 |
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Special Verdict T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Taper (unknown) T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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White Whale, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Z-Row Gravity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ron Olevsky, solo, Feb. 1978, 5.8 A3 |
| Page Views: | 2,973 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is one of gems around here, short approach, good moves, and good adventurous climbing. It is definitely a must do.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.
Location
This is right off the road approximately 100 yards before the first tunnel on a south-facing buttress. The start of the climb is approximately 5 minutes from the road. Great route, stimulating at times, anchors were updated in 2004'. There are no summit anchors. Top out and walk down the road hitching a ride if you can.
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