Ribbed Buttress
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British C1
Avg: 3.1 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Ron Olevsky, solo, Feb. 1978, 5.8 A3 |
Page Views: | 2,947 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Jan 6, 2007 |
Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is one of gems around here, short approach, good moves, and good adventurous climbing. It is definitely a must do.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.
P1: Solo a short perfect hands crack (5.8) to an alcove at the base of a large chimney (you can avoid this pitch by climbing a ramp and entering this alcove from the side but it is WAY sketchy!).
P2: Climb a long pitch up the semi-rotten chimney past a few fixed anchors catch a rest and then fire up the fingers in the right-facing chimney on better rock to a hanging belay. 5.10+.
P3: Continue traversing past two fixed anchors to a thin, finger crack. Nail the correct sequence and fire through ten feet of 5.11 to good jams. Continue through a difficult wide section to a rest and continue up the fist crack in perfect chocolate to a belay at in the "rib eye". 5.11+.
P4: Continue free up the heinous, overhanging slot (freed in 2000 by Matt L.) or clip [through] the bolt ladder circumventing the roof to easier ground and the summit. C2 5.9+ / 5.11+.
Location
This is right off the road approximately 100 yards before the first tunnel on a south-facing buttress. The start of the climb is approximately 5 minutes from the road. Great route, stimulating at times, anchors were updated in 2004'. There are no summit anchors. Top out and walk down the road hitching a ride if you can.
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