Login with Facebook
Broken Tooth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Novacaine T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 

Rhythm Method 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: m-earle on Nov 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
almost to the anchors


This short and fun tips splitter is on the right hand side of the main face that rock lobster is on. It begins with some technical moves using the two cracks at the start, and then follows the splitter to a two blt anchor. This climb is unusual in the fact that it has foot-holds to work with. Be carfull of loose rock around the anchor


green aliens

Photos of Rhythm Method Slideshow Add Photo
A jug on a 5.12?
A jug on a 5.12?
The crux start
The crux start

Comments on Rhythm Method Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I seconded Paco on this route and found it no harder than mid 5.11 with a "cordón umbilical". However: I went back to lead it a few weeks later and took a soft ground fall after having ripped three pieces of shit gear. After that my lead head was shot and I placed a piece of pro every 2 feet, at least, in the soft uninspiring rock. The grade made a bit more sense when pumped from putting in pro everywhere.

Don't use the thin profiled aliens on this route.
By Tank Evans
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

I second the feeling of crappy rock, definately bring smaller than green aliens to stich it up.
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 18, 2012

Takes some 0 and 00 TCUs, or equivalent. Soft and sandy rock at the start doesn't inspire much confidence in the little cams; sewing it up is definitely justified. Nice moves, though, and probably still worth doing.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!