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The Bookmark
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel aka Melvin's Wheel, The 
Backflip 
Bellyflop 
Between The Sheets 
Bookmark OW 
Cave Route 
Coleman's Complex 
Crack of No Return 
Dead in Bed 
East Side 
Fall Out 
Fantasy Ridge 
Goose, The 
Inside Straight 
Joy and Tribulation 
Klingon (with direct start) 
Manhole Cover 
Marginal Line 
Original Fantasy Ridge 
Penis Chimney 
Plan A 
Rhythm Method 
Romulan Territory 
Screamin' Eagles 
Seams Like A Dream 
Sojourn 
Son of a Pitch 
Star Trek 
Time Machine 
Twiggy's Crack 
Virgin Spring 
Wigglin' Fingies 
Unsorted Routes:

Rhythm Method 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Weidner, Patrick Vernon, 6/29/06
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Jul 11, 2006
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Rhythm Method follows the corner out left, with th...
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Description 

Rhythm Method climbs the roof-capped, left-leaning corner just left of the 10b finger crack that begins the crux pitch of Between The Sheets.

Start in the corner direct (11- R), or further right as for Between The Sheets. In either case, place gear as high as possible in the 10b finger crack before stepping left into the corner. Wrestle leftward underneath the roof, and climb with difficulty up to the horizontal crack of Dead In Bed. Follow the hands to offwidth crack of Sidewinder straight above the corner, all the way to the top of the formation. The protection is just good enough to prevent a groundfall.

An onsight attempt of this route would be a serious undertaking.


Location 

Approach: attain the boulder-strewn terrace beneath Rhythm Method via the western descent gully between the Left Book and The Bookmark. Alternatively, one can climb the first two pitches plus a little more of Fantasy Ridge to reach the terrace.

Descent: scramble to the flat top of The Bookmark and locate a two-bolt rap anchor on an arete above the west gully. Rap 100 feet, then downclimb 15 feet of class 4, or make a second rap from slings around a boulder.


Protection 

1 each: #0 TCU - #3 TCU, RPs, small-medium nuts, #1 Lowe Ball.
2 each: #0.5 Camalot.
(For wide crack finish, bring 1 each: #0.75 - #3.5 Camalots.)



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By PatrickV
From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Jul 14, 2006

That was a proud send Chris! Hope to be back on the rock in about a month or so.

-Pat

By Bob Rotert
May 19, 2008

Chris, can you elaborate on how this route established. When you say an onsite attempt at this route would be a serious undertaking it sounds like you might be saying the route was previewed or head pointed before the FA? Just trying to get a little more detail on this one. Looks like a proud line! Nice addition Brotha!

By Chris Weidner
May 28, 2008

Rhythm Method was established as a headpoint: I toproped it twice (from the anchors on Between The Sheets) before leading it, placing all the gear on lead. Onsighting the route would be serious because the gear at the crux is very poor unless placed perfectly - and even then it may not hold. A very small, inobvious piece and a flared cam protect the crux moves. I hung on TR for awhile tinkering with different gear options before finding those two pieces. Thanks for the comment Bob.