Rhumba of the Toads
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
FA: | Craig Copelin Late 90's |
Page Views: | 1,101 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Shirtless Mike on Feb 1, 2011 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
A moderate start up slightly hollow rock leads to a high first bolt with a bulge above. Good holds allow clipping of the second bolt from below, then enter the crux passing the second bolt. You may find yourself slightly to the right of the bolt line to utilize some good pocket sidepulls. After this commit to traversing left thru some bad holds and some hard matches to obtain jugs to clip the third bolt. After this one more tricky move leads to a good crack system leading to the anchors.
The anchors at this time are just 2 bolt hangers so I clipped the last bolt on "Last Call for Alcohol" and finished to those anchors. This adds a few more feet of climbing but no difficulty.
This was originally graded 11d, mentioned as 12ish in another guide. It certainly felt quite hard for 11d. There is a large rock scar left of the second bolt that my have used to have been some holds possibly explaining the difference in difficulty.
The anchors at this time are just 2 bolt hangers so I clipped the last bolt on "Last Call for Alcohol" and finished to those anchors. This adds a few more feet of climbing but no difficulty.
This was originally graded 11d, mentioned as 12ish in another guide. It certainly felt quite hard for 11d. There is a large rock scar left of the second bolt that my have used to have been some holds possibly explaining the difference in difficulty.
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