a. The Uberfall
L to R
R to L
BB Route T
Birthday Biscuit Boy T
Black Fly T
Brat Direct, The T
Bridal Path T
CC Route T
Crimson Corner T
Das Wiggles T
DD Route T
Dirty Chimney T
Dirty Gerdie T
Double Chin T
Double Clutch T
Easy Keyhole T
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T
Fancy Idiot T
Fitschen's Folly T,TR
Flake, The T,TR
Handy Andy T
Heel Hook and Hack-it T
Herdie Gerdie T
Hudson's Boulder Problem, aka Trashcan Overhang T,TR
Jacob's Ladder T,TR
Ken's Crack T
Low Exposure T
Lower Eaves T
Mitty Mouse T
Nice 5.9 Climb T
Nice Crack Climb T
No Picnic T
No Solution T,TR
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T
Red Cabbage T
Red Cabbage Right T
Shit or Go Blind T
Shitty Mitty T,TR
Short Job T,TR
Squiggles Direct T,TR
Stupid Crack T
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T
Susie A T
Trapped Like a Rat T
Uberfall Descent T
Walter Mitty T
Start about 20' right of
Laurel at a crack behind a tree stump. Climb the hand to fist crack (and even larger crack climbing) with many ledges on either side. Location
Right of two prominent cracks just left of the Uberfall.
Standard Gunks rack, including one or two 3"-4" cams. Bolt anchors on top, can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left of Laurel.
Rhododendron on TR
The feel-good climb of the year: Rhododendron.
The view from the top of Rhododendron.
me workn up the fantastic lieback section
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Sep 2, 2007 rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
This is a very fun route, but very busy. Get on it very early or very late in the day or plan to wait a long time for it. A top rope can be easily set up from Dirty Chimney about 20' to the left.
By Paul Shultz From: Hudson, Ma May 13, 2009
Much better then Laurel at left. Fun moves!
By J Antin From: Denver, CO Aug 10, 2009 rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
This route is a classic for it's features, accessibility, location and quality. I will climb this on almost every Gunks visit on the way back to the parking lot.
By doligo Jun 6, 2010 rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Finally got on it (I never even top-roped it before!). What a great little route - finger, hand and foot jams all the way up. Not sure you need big cams though, I think it adequately protects with up to #1 or #2 camalots.
By Mike McLean Aug 12, 2010
Not sure I agree with the 'no need for big cams' comment ... of course, I put in too much compared to others (I saw some guides put in only 2 pieces).
If you're like me (chicken shit and n00b), I used both a #3 and a #2 and could have used both my #3's. Didn't feel like 5.6 at all though (felt more like a 5). Loads of foot holds and rests. I cruised up without much hesitation.
By doligo Aug 12, 2010 rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Re: grade, it's more 5.6 if you jam the crack and don't use face horizontals. If you use face holds, naturally, it's easier...
By saxfiend Administrator From: Decatur, GA Oct 13, 2010 rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fun lead with nice fist jams, a rarity here. Wish it was longer.
By Ben C From: Portland, OR Oct 31, 2010
excellent moves in a classic setting! definitely felt better carrying the #3 camalot, and had one of the rare hand jam moves in the gunks. very cool route!
By Alicia Sokolowski From: Brooklyn, NY Apr 18, 2011 rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super fun route that is relatively sustained throughout, but I think it is more of a 5.5 sustained. I currently mainly climb around the 5.5 to 5.7 level, so I tend to actually feel the difference between 5.5 and 5.6.
By Michael McGuinn From: Binghamton, NY Sep 9, 2013
The tree in front has been removed as of a week ago.
By kswissto Aug 18, 2014 rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Very busy. Do it in the early morning to avoid crowds, or tons of onlookers asking questions.