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 ADVANCED
a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Rhododendron 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Dick Bonker and George Lewis 1956
Page Views: 5,271
Submitted By: Adam Catalano on Mar 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (221)
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BETA PHOTO: Right crack

Description 

Start about 20' right of Laurel at a crack behind a tree stump. Climb the hand to fist crack (and even larger crack climbing) with many ledges on either side.


Location 

Right of two prominent cracks just left of the Uberfall.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack, including one or two 3"-4" cams. Bolt anchors on top, can be accessed by the 5.0 chimney to the left of Laurel.



Photos of Rhododendron Slideshow Add Photo
Rhododendron on TR
Rhododendron on TR
The feel-good climb of the year: Rhododendron.
The feel-good climb of the year: Rhododendron.
The view from the top of Rhododendron.
The view from the top of Rhododendron.
me workn up the fantastic lieback section
me workn up the fantastic lieback section
Rhododendron crack.
Rhododendron crack.
Comments on Rhododendron Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 18, 2014
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 2, 2007
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a very fun route, but very busy. Get on it very early or very late in the day or plan to wait a long time for it. A top rope can be easily set up from Dirty Chimney about 20' to the left.

By Paul Shultz
From: Hudson, Ma
May 13, 2009

Much better then Laurel at left. Fun moves!

By Heather Selitrennikoff
From: East Coast
Jun 1, 2009

Loved this route, eats up pro.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 10, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route is a classic for it's features, accessibility, location and quality. I will climb this on almost every Gunks visit on the way back to the parking lot.

By doligo
Jun 6, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Finally got on it (I never even top-roped it before!). What a great little route - finger, hand and foot jams all the way up. Not sure you need big cams though, I think it adequately protects with up to #1 or #2 camalots.

By Mike McLean
Aug 12, 2010

Not sure I agree with the 'no need for big cams' comment ... of course, I put in too much compared to others (I saw some guides put in only 2 pieces).

If you're like me (chicken shit and n00b), I used both a #3 and a #2 and could have used both my #3's.

Didn't feel like 5.6 at all though (felt more like a 5). Loads of foot holds and rests. I cruised up without much hesitation.

By doligo
Aug 12, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Re: grade, it's more 5.6 if you jam the crack and don't use face horizontals. If you use face holds, naturally, it's easier...

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun lead with nice fist jams, a rarity here. Wish it was longer.

By Ben C
From: Portland, OR
Oct 31, 2010

excellent moves in a classic setting! definitely felt better carrying the #3 camalot, and had one of the rare hand jam moves in the gunks. very cool route!

By Alicia Sokolowski
From: Brooklyn, NY
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Super fun route that is relatively sustained throughout, but I think it is more of a 5.5 sustained. I currently mainly climb around the 5.5 to 5.7 level, so I tend to actually feel the difference between 5.5 and 5.6.

By Michael McGuinn
From: Binghamton, NY
Sep 9, 2013

The tree in front has been removed as of a week ago.

By kswissto
Aug 18, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Very busy. Do it in the early morning to avoid crowds, or tons of onlookers asking questions.