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The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment T,S 
Acid Crack T 
Acid Rock T 
AHR S 
Bihedral T 
Bihedral Arete T,S 
Blood Diamond S 
Case of the Fags T 
Crack Variation T 
Dan's Line S 
Daydreaming T 
Diamonds and Rust S 
Dihedral Variation T,S 
Edge of Reality S 
Fat Tuesday T,S 
Flags of Our Fathers T,S 
Flesh Eating Flies S 
Group Therapy S 
Heterohedral T 
High Hard One S 
Hold The Line S 
It's Time For Change T,S 
Just Putin Around T 
Left-Handed Tool T,S 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] S 
Night Moves T,S 
Oh Boy T,S 
Pariah S 
Puff Daddy S 
Rhodian Shores S 
Rhodian, Naturally T,TR 
Sands of Iwo Jima S 
Sun Spot T,S 
Thumb Tack T 
Tool King T,S 
Trick or Treat T,S 
Where's Ray? S 

Rhodian Shores 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Muller, Dianne Barrow and Mark Rolofson, 1997?
Page Views: 3,681
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on May 12, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: Approach to routes on the upper tier of the Bihedr...

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Description 

Rossiter calls this a 9, and I believe Rolofson a 10. It felt harder than 9. Demands good slab technique and is bolted a bit for the taller person, even though the bolts are closely spaced. That said, the route begins 15 feet left of the left-facing dihedral that is P1 of the Bihedral route and ascends a low-angle slab which steepens near the top. Two tricky sequences get the blood flowing at the third and fifth bolts. A great route.

Protection 

9 well-spaced bolts to a two-bolt anchor with rings.


Photos of Rhodian Shores Slideshow Add Photo
James leading Rhodian Shores (Dave in the shadow, leading the Bihedral).
James leading Rhodian Shores (Dave in the shadow, ...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 12, 2011
By Darin Lang
Jan 1, 2001

I thought it was a great route - at least, much better than Bihedral to the right of it, which seemed like a sandbag on both pitches with poor gear on the second pitch. It felt maybe a bit harder than 9 on a couple of moves, but the rating is probably accurate for a slab.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 2, 2001

I also thought this route 5.10- in one section (3rd bolt or so?). I enjoyed the route as well as the Bihedral, I would not say the Bihedral is much worse. It is just trad climbing vs. sport.
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 1, 2002

This was a great route, albeit harder than the 5.9 rating it was given by Rossiter. I'd agree with 10a. Requires very good footwork and slab climbing techniques. One of the better sport routes I've done in the canyon.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
May 13, 2002

I'd say 10a around the third bolt. I stepped right thinking the vertical seams might provide some solace but made for a tricky return back left. The rest felt 5.9. A great climb!
By Joshua Lewis
Jul 1, 2002

Good line on great rock. I agree on the 10a rating. We linked this with the 2nd pitch of the Bihedral route--very nice. A few things: I would suggest climbing past the anchors (about another 15-20ft) to the base of the the 2nd pitch to set your belay--much more comfortable and easier to manage your rope. Second thing-leave the nuts and Aliens on the ground; the second pitch is all about .75"-4" cams. If you don't have a 3.5" or a 4" cam, you're in for a dicey runout. Last thing-there are good slings on a tree at the top that you can rap off. Really fun combination--it might just have been good timing, but despite the crowds on the Riviera below, nobody was up there.
By Ray Snead
Aug 6, 2002

This route is certainly 5.10. 10b sounds about right; a good comparable is Le Nouveau Riche, next door at the Riviera.
By Karl Nichols
May 13, 2003

I would rate this a 10a as well. 3rd and 4th bolts are the crux. Great slab climb!
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 22, 2003

If it matters, the crux seemed to be between bolt 2&3 per 5 folks with whom I've climbed this. High step L or R foot works. Maybe L foot is better?
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jun 15, 2003

Definitely the crux is the 4th clip, involving a thin finger tip seam about eye level and a sequence of delicate foot placements out left, working up and left to a nice ledge and much better stances. Have the draw in your mouth ready to clip. Two very small openings in the seam favor skinny finger tips. Felt (10) to me. The upper half is also interesting with an undercling and a flake with more positive holds. Fun stuff. 3 Stars.
By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 13, 2003

The crux for me was getting up to and past the third bolt. I also ended up stepping a bit up and to the right to make the third clip, but, as mentioned above, doing so makes for a difficult traverse back. Very solid and continuous climbing. I remember only eight bolts to the anchors.
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 13, 2005

This was a great route with moves all the way to the top! Does anyone know a way to get dogs up to the Bihedral area without making your dog do a "5.12-R-dog-move"? Aspen had a harder time climbing up there then we did!
By pfwein
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I believe Rossiter's rating was taken from feedback from my partner and me. Our 5.9 rating was relative to traditional 5.9 climbs in BC; we weren't familiar with the new rating system back then. Good alternative first pitch to the bihedral. I did Over the Hill (real 10b) a few weeks after this route--OTH felt MUCH harder. So 5.9 is probably accurate.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Foot-intensive, interesting climbing. Some of the bolts aren't in the best spots, but they'll get you where you want to go.
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Oct 2, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb. Well protected. Somewhere between a 9 and a 10. It's a sport climb?
By Marty Combs
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 12, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As far as the rating goes, if you wander left and right a lot it may go at 5.9. If you hug the bolt line, it's probably 5.10b.