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Lincoln Woods
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Alcove, The 
Busy Child Boulder 
Dam Boulders 
Egg, The 
Fatboy Boulder 
Font Boulder 
Fred Boulder 
Great Slab / Wave Boulder 
Heart Boulder 
Horse Cave 
Improbable Boulder 
Jesus Loves You Boulder 
Lilly Pad  
Little Tomato 
Lost Crag 
Lower Heart 
Peace Dove Boulder 
pond approach 
Pond Cave 
Ship's Prow 
sit down area 
Suicide Boulder 
Summit / Pinnacle Boulders 
Super Crack 2 
Talus Boulder 
Tombstone, The 
Try Again Boulder 
Tuolumne Boulder 
Warm Up Area 
Yosemite Boulder 

Lincoln Woods 


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Lat, Long: 41.8975, -71.4339 Map
Page Views: 73,618. Good page? (2 likes)   
Administrator: M Sprague
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 27, 2007

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Spotted by Cory and Jake, with photo by Nelson, I ...

Description 

High quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com.


Getting There 

From Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Woods:
The Wave   V2     Boulder, 20 feet   Great Slab / Wave Boulder
Mack's Traverse   V2+     Boulder, 25 feet   Warm Up Area : Mack's traverse
Peace Dove   V2+     Boulder, 12 feet   Peace Dove Boulder
The Quiet Buddhist   V3     Boulder, 12 feet   Pond Cave
Pond Cave Arete   V3     Boulder, 10 feet   Pond Cave
Heart of Glass   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Heart Boulder
Iron Cross   V4     Boulder   Warm Up Area : Iron Cross Boulder
The Pond Cave Traverse   V4     Boulder, 15 feet   Pond Cave
Neil's Lunge   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Warm Up Area : Warm Up Cave
The Executioner   V4+     Boulder, 15 feet   The Tombstone
Sit Down Traverse   V5     Boulder, 20 feet   sit down area
Try Again   V5     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Loadies Zen   V6-7     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Straight Again   V7     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Leap Frog   V7     Boulder, 12 feet   Pond Cave
Last Call   V7     Boulder, 15 feet   Talus Boulder
Diesel   V8     Boulder   Try Again Boulder
Barbed Wire   V8     Boulder   Tuolumne Boulder
Who Needs Hueco   V8     Boulder, 8 feet   Pond Cave
The Chelsea Smile (aka...Divine Providence Sit)   V13-14     Boulder   Super Crack 2
Browse More Classics in Lincoln Woods

Featured Route For Lincoln Woods
Setting up for the dyno

Leap Frog V7  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
A very fun dyno using some uncharacteristic rock for lincoln woods. Start low on underclings in the quartzite on the right side of the cave. Move up mostly using crimps in the vertical crack and join the Pond Cave Traverse crack at its midway point. Grab a jug up and left and then launch yourself up and right to a decent hold over the lip that is both far away and hard to see (scope out ahead). Top out from there. This is a fun problem to try even if V7 is outside of your range....[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island


Photos of Lincoln Woods Slideshow Add Photo
Petes problem.

Petes problem.

Lincoln classic

Lincoln classic

map from the RIparks website.

BETA PHOTO: map from the RIparks website.

Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on slopers and a nasty crimp.  Between the road and Ships Prow boulder, anyone have more info?

Buddy I love you boulder?.. fun little problem on ...

Map of the woods.

BETA PHOTO: Map of the woods.


Comments on Lincoln Woods Add Comment
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 13, 2007

This area is filled with many quality problems.
However, the frequency with which I encountered eliminates and variations on obvious lines was a bit of a bummer.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jul 1, 2008

An excellent area.Lots of fun problems, especially in th V2-V5 range and boulders are everywhere.

By Joe M.
Apr 10, 2009

Ladd, not being a jerk, just curious as to why eliminates and variatons bummed you out? you should be psyched that people are so motivated to climb that they will climb any and all variations. i have travelled all over the U.S. and have never found a more climbable rock than lincoln woods. holds everywhere, so the locals take adavantage of that and climb anything and everything. if you only want to climb the pure lines, go ahead, but i don't see where there is any negative in having more problems to climb. too me, more problems equals more fun! maybe it's just me...

now, if you said the grafitti or the sketchy people on the loop road bummed you out, i could understand that...

By tscupp
From: Providence, RI
Apr 13, 2010

The website that had all the beta is no longer up, hopefully it will be brought back soon but it has been a month or two since I've seen it working.

By Oliver Chong
Apr 15, 2011

The original site is still down, but you can still get the information using the Internet Archive Wayback Machine replay.waybackmachine.org/www.lincolnwoodsbouldering.com/

It might not be the latest info though if the site was being updated over the last two years or so.