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| Select Area... Alcove, The Busy Child Boulder Dam Boulders Egg, The Fatboy Boulder Font Boulder Fred Boulder Great Slab / Wave Boulder Heart Boulder Horse Cave Improbable Boulder Jesus Loves You Boulder Lilly Pad Little Tomato Lost Crag Lower Heart Peace Dove Boulder pond approach Pond Cave Ship's Prow sit down area Suicide Boulder Summit / Pinnacle Boulders Super Crack 2 Talus Boulder Tombstone, The Try Again Boulder Tuolumne Boulder Warm Up Area Yosemite Boulder |
DescriptionHigh quality bouldering on sharply-textured granite awaits urban adventurers in Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence, R.I. It is entirely fitting that Little Rhody's best climbing is on the small stones. Biking and walking trails link clusters of boulders, set among picnic areas and ponds. The climbing season extends deep into winter here, when sunny days in the 20s and 30s invite beanie-headed pebble wrestlers to enjoy killer friction with handwarmers simmering in chalkbags and wool socks stuffed in pockets. An excellent guidebook is complemented by beta on Newenglandbouldering.com. Getting ThereFrom Rt. 146, the Twin River Road exit gains a park entrance by turning east at the end of the ramp. Once in the park, find roadside parking near the T intersection and follow the road left from the T through a gate. Follow the road right, between ponds, to the warm-up area (visable up hill on left). Park access is available from other entrances, too. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lincoln Woods:
The Wave V2 Boulder, 20 feet Great Slab / Wave Boulder
Mack's Traverse V2+ Boulder, 25 feet Warm Up Area : Mack's traverse
Peace Dove V2+ Boulder, 12 feet Peace Dove Boulder
The Quiet Buddhist V3 Boulder, 12 feet Pond Cave
Pond Cave Arete V3 Boulder, 10 feet Pond Cave
Heart of Glass V4 Boulder, 12 feet Heart Boulder
Iron Cross V4 Boulder Warm Up Area : Iron Cross Boulder
The Pond Cave Traverse V4 Boulder, 15 feet Pond Cave
Neil's Lunge V4 Boulder, 12 feet Warm Up Area : Warm Up Cave
The Executioner V4+ Boulder, 15 feet The Tombstone
Sit Down Traverse V5 Boulder, 20 feet sit down area
Try Again V5 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Loadies Zen V6-7 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Straight Again V7 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Last Call V7 Boulder, 15 feet Talus Boulder
Diesel V8 Boulder Try Again Boulder
Barbed Wire V8 Boulder Tuolumne Boulder
Who Needs Hueco V8 Boulder, 8 feet Pond Cave
The Chelsea Smile (aka...Divine Providence Sit) V13-14 Boulder Super Crack 2
Featured Route For Lincoln Woods
Leap Frog V7 Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
A very fun dyno using some uncharacteristic rock for lincoln woods. Start low on underclings in the quartzite on the right side of the cave. Move up mostly using crimps in the vertical crack and join the Pond Cave Traverse crack at its midway point. Grab a jug up and left and then launch yourself up and right to a decent hold over the lip that is both far away and hard to see (scope out ahead). Top out from there. This is a fun problem to try even if V7 is outside of your range....[more] Browse More Classics in Rhode Island
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