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Rhode Island
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Arcadia Management Area 
Ballard Park (closed) 
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Carr's Pond Boulders in the Big River Management Area 
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Lincoln Woods 
Pettaquamscutt Rock 
Rockville 
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Snake Den 
Snake Den South 
Wickaboxet Management Area 

Rhode Island 


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Location: 41.718, -71.5265 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: M Sprague, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Joe M. on Jul 30, 2010
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Description 

Rhode Island might be the smallest state in the union, but it has plenty to offer climbing wise if you are a fan of its more diminutive form. There is a well developed bouldering community here, with the main focus being Lincoln Woods State Park, just north west of Providence. Being close to the city and its numerous colleges, the boulders and ledges of the 600+ acre park have been climbed on extensively since the early 70s. The quality, number of routes and fact that it is often free of snow when other places are covered means frequent visitors from the neighboring states as well, all who have helped add lines and upped the grades. There are hundreds of established lines, currently up to V13-14.

Less well known, smaller, but sometimes high quality areas are scattered around the state, mostly in the western half, in the various management areas. If you want to take a break from the somewhat urban experience of Lincoln Woods and maybe find some new lines, exploring these other areas is recommended. There are gems out there, like the excellent Lost Boulder, a lone boulder of impeccable granite. It is found in the Arcadia Management Area, an area developed in the past, but with new spots popping up.

There is not much for roped climbing. Unfortunately, the best areas for that have been closed, like Diamond Hill and Long Pond. There is a bit of fairly short top roping available on the ledges of Durfee Hill, Snake Den, Mt. Tom (Arcadia), Beach Pond and Wickaboxet. For nearby roped climbing, you are usually better off heading over the border to Connecticut or Mass.


Getting There 

The smallest state in the U.S., south of Massachusetts and east of Connecticut.


Beta 

Rhode Island is a fairly urban area and as such, the climbing areas tend to reflect that. There isn't much camping and scenic, wild areas are far and few. However, the climbing is challenging and interesting and there is a vibrant local community.


522 Total Routes


['4 Stars',15],['3 Stars',145],['2 Stars',206],['1 Star',138],['Bomb',10]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',83],['V2-3',198],['V4-5',84],['V6-7',65],['V8-9',57],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',29],['>=V14',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rhode Island:
The Wave   V2 5+     Boulder, 20'   Lincoln Woods : Great Slab / Wave Boulder
Mack's Traverse   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 25'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Mack's traverse
Peace Dove   V2+ 5+     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Peace Dove Boulder
The Quiet Buddhist   V3 6A     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
The Pond Cave Traverse   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Heart of Glass   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : Heart Boulder
Iron Cross   V4 6B     Boulder   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Iron Cross Boulder
Neil's Lunge   V4 6B     Boulder, 12'   Warm Up Area aka The Tomato... : Warm Up Cave
The Executioner   V4+ 6B+     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : The Tombstone
Temperance   V5 6C     Boulder, 14'   Arcadia Management Area : The "Found" Boulder
Sit Down Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   Sit Down area / Druid's Cir... : Split Rock
Try Again   V5 6C     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Try Again Boulder
Loadies Zen   V6-7 7A+     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Try Again Boulder
Last Call   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   Lincoln Woods : Talus Boulder
Diesel   V8 7B     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Try Again Boulder
Barbed Wire   V8 7B     Boulder   Lincoln Woods : Tuolumne Boulder
Who Needs Hueco   V8 7B     Boulder, 8'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
hueco dreams   V9 7C     Boulder, 18'   Lincoln Woods : Pond Cave
Chemical   V9+ 7C     Boulder, 12'   Lincoln Woods : The Egg
Ground Zero   V10 7C+     Boulder   Arcadia Management Area : The "Lost" Boulder
Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Featured Route For Rhode Island
Nina Williams cruxing

Barbed Wire V8 7B  Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Tuolumne Boulder
Good problem on good rock. Traverses right to left with a reach dependent crux to obtain the flat "cigarette" edge at chest height. Has been called v7 by those over six feet, and v11 by those under 5"4'. Either way, its a woods classic. Starting at the cigarette hold and finishing is probably the best v6 at the woods. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Rhode Island

Comments on Rhode Island Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 4, 2014
By Alex Johnston
Dec 27, 2011

Even without names, route information and difficulty would be exceptional. I would be happy to tag along when Jeff continues his awesome recon of Mt. Tom, because im interested in seeing what everyone else knows about this place. Contact me via email if there is any help needed. Im also in Burlingame all the time riding my bike. Im not sure what the rules are for adding route information, but i would be happy too do my own recon, with picture and video.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Dec 27, 2011

I don't think there are any rules. Just do the best you can. People can add more information or corrections as comments and you can update your entries later if need be.

I know there is another ridge with another short cliff line further south in Burlingame that Brad Sherman showed me, but I don't remember exactly where. You probably ride right near it.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 19, 2012

Does anybody remember the name of Mike Galoobs' defunct bouldering/paddle site? I was going to see if I can find an archived version to refresh my memory of some route names. The site name had ''pullpaddle' in it.

By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
Jan 20, 2012

pullpedalpaddle.com

I think.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jan 20, 2012

Thanks, that was it. I couldn't find much from it though, unfortunately.

By irujo
Apr 1, 2012

Has anyone ever looked at the boulders near Cranston High School WEST? You can see a few of the smaller ones if you park on the corner of Phenix ave and Metropolitan Ave, in Cranston. Their seems to be a lot of potentail! Theres trails there so I don't think its private property.

If you follow the trails for about 10 minutes you will come across a few boulders 15+ feet. Let me know if anyone knows anything about this area or if your interested. =)

By Dana Seaton
Apr 1, 2012

Jeremy Wall has done some climbing back there I think. I do not have much in the way of details. Get out there and bring back some beta.

By joshuamason401
From: Troy, NY
Jul 2, 2012

Found a pretty decent boulder in Westerly. Have you guys experienced this thing, any routes up on it already?

By Harry Marinakis
Jul 22, 2013

Back in the early-to-mid 1970s we did a lot of climbing on Aquidneck Island. We were in high school.

Our favorite was a long scrambling traverse of the eastern sea cliffs from Black Point to Third Beach.

The quarry in Newport was another favorite. I'll see if I can find some photos from BITD.

There was also a small cliff in Portsmouth (the Hummocks) near the Tiverton Bridge. We used to rap and top rope there. Anyone know anything about this cliff?

We also poached some climbing along Hanging Rock near Newport. We did it in the winter because no one was around at that time of year. We did long girdle traverse of this 2,000-foot long formation.

Winter cragging at Hanging Rock
Winter cragging at Hanging Rock


Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Hanging Rock girdle traverse
Hanging Rock girdle traverse


Climbing in the Hummocks, Portsmouth
Climbing in the Hummocks, Portsmouth

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 23, 2013

Fun history. Keep it coming. I would like to see more. By the way, what kind of rope is that? Did it come from the old Outdoorsman? I have hear strories of the guys their, later friends of them, selling static rope to the Smith brothers for leading when they were kids. It would have been about the same time. I suppose it didn't matter as much with a hip belay.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 28, 2013

I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing.

By Harry Marinakis
Aug 4, 2013

The rope is goldline.

Here are some photos of the Newport Quarry, circa 1975. In the 2nd photo I see both goldline and kernmantle rope.
Rock shoes: PAs
Harness: Whillans sit harness
Helmet: Joe Brown

Newport Quarry, circa 1975
Newport Quarry, circa 1975

Newport Quarry, circa 1975
Newport Quarry, circa 1975

By Brian
From: North Kingstown, RI
Aug 9, 2013

Bradley,

The only place I know of that fits that description is the limestone quarry off of RT 146 and Wilbur Road in Lincoln. It is an active quarry and you will probably get arrested. If you know of another place I'd love to hear about it.
Brian

>>bradley white
>>Jul 28, 2013

>I have heard about a quarry near Providence that people dive off of into the water from much height. The walls are supposed to be about seventy feet high.
Quarries have inherit blasted out rock loose rock risks, but if people are swimming an diving there, it seems reasonable climbers could send some routes. I'll get back about the name of the place and likely other quarries the rascalians visiting here, are probably trespassing.

By marctroob
Oct 13, 2013

i added about 20+ problems today to the Buckeye Brook area which is out near Burlingame. I found and old notebook from 2001 when were were climbing out there a bunch and it had a hand drawn topo of the area with a bunch of the names and route info... Check it out and tell me what you think... we are going to get the pics updated and added were needed to make it a more complete section..
MT

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 14, 2013

Thanks, Marc. I moved some of the old photos into the sub areas and routes you made. I would be nice to get some better ones.

By Ben Shipley
From: Bristol, RI
Mar 3, 2014

Hi everyone. I'm currently working on a thesis project on rock climbing and development. Lincoln Woods is my main site of research and I am looking for climbers who played a part in developing climbs in Lincoln Woods. If you or someone that you know has this kind of specialized knowledge of the area I would LOVE to hear from you. Time is short, and I must collect info in the next couple of weeks. This project has the potential to make something special out of the boulders that we know and love that are The Woods!

By Joe M.
Mar 4, 2014

Ben, I would be willing to help you out. You can e-mail me at newenglandbouldering (AT) gmail.com