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Rhino Bucket 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Glen Cilley
Page Views: 2,252
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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rhino buckets, starring Kevin Ogden!

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

For me, this climb was one I did once and tried to forget. The climb is awkward in the way it climbs up the sequence of ledges and you are always clipping a bolt strangely.

Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade.

(*Added for clarification*- I am simply stating that the final holds are pumpy and awkward to reach. As a fall from the anchors while pulling up slack would be very painful, I suggest someone who's limit is 5.10 try this climb on TR to find the holds and become comfortable with them before s/he tries to lead this one.)

By the way, RhinoBUCKETS is a big of a misnomer. The holds on this route aren't all buckets, some of them can be difficult to hold on to for the grade, especially at the anchor. Although, there is a Rhino-shaped hold on the climb. It is a huge jug that resembles a rhino's horn if looked at the right way.(The previous sentence was added Post-Comment, thank you Chris Duca)

Location 

Starts on big tree route just left of big boulder where the trail comes up from Flesh for Lulu.

Protection 

8 bolts to anchor.
Don't botch a clip on this climb or you'll be on your way down to one of those ledges you mantled so awkwardly earlier.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 18, 2014
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
May 15, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

True that this route may not be for everyone due to its' technical stemming and spicy moves above bolts, but that does not make it a route to be forgotten. On the contrary, it is a good test of intestinal fortitude (in other words: keeping your s**t together!).

Also, at about mid-height on the route, there is a hold--a big, juggy, hold--that, if looked at the right way, resembles a rhino's horn.

Absolutely recommended!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 16, 2007

By the description I'd say you have every reason to do the route again.... I agree that there is only one "bucket" on the climb, but the route is well worthwhile and not too spicy once you learn the foot work and body positions.... As for clipping the anchors, don't clip them until you find the clipping hold and get comfortable.... There is a good hold up there....

The start can be a bit wet....
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007

Perhaps I should, Lee.

I remember feeling like this climb wasn't fun. To add to my dislike for the climb, my climbing partner has told me it was 5.8, and I was using it to burn out for the day. Only after climbing it did I look at the guidebook. Consequently, I've always had a sour taste in my mouth about this one.

Also, I don't climb with that climbing partner anymore.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 17, 2007

Ladd, you wrote that "Clipping the anchors is by far the crux of this climb and shouldn't be attempted by a leader who isn't comfortable at the grade."

Are you suggesting that the new leader jump from the anchors without clipping them? I know this is common practice on climbs such as Whip Tide and Predator, but I wonder if this "technique" has made it's way to the Meadows.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 22, 2007

Jay,
The victory whip from this climb would be bloody, I was just suggesting a leader try the climb first on TR to find the anchor clipping hold so that an unintentional victory-whip doesn't happen.
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 22, 2007

Ah, the dreaded unintentional victory whip...
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 22, 2007

Yes... The not-quite, less-than, kinda-sorta-but-not, victory whip.

Of course, you could downrate the climb to 5.8+ C1 and grab the chains....
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 22, 2007

C1? Those chains are fixed. I'd say 5.8+ C0 tops.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 22, 2007

ok... C0

Pretty funny Jay, I know absolutely nothing about rating aid climbing, I almost put down C0 but I didn't know if the rating existed...so I chose C1, I remember seeing that rating somewhere.

Now, of course too late, I've actually educated myself a bit and understand the difference.
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Aug 21, 2007

you know, this is getting to be pretty funny. This climb actually holds a pretty warm spot in my heart as it was my first 5.10 onsight (maybe not a true onsight as I had known the grade and probably seen somebody on it once as I had frequented the meadows a bit before) and I found the climbing pretty interesting. I was however, fresh from warming up and at the early part of my day, not tired and sandbagged.
By BTodd
May 26, 2008

I actually enjoyed the climb (except the ending part with the chains, that is a difficult move)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I enjoyed this route and I really enjoyed the last few moves I like moves that get my heart racing and make me nervous, it is sort of crazy but when I am on something I could get hurt on if I fell I actually feel almost more comfortable... but I am a weird one sometimes.
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jan 7, 2009

i really wanted to get on this but when i went to do it there was a bees nest on it..... talk about a bummer
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 7, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Mike next time you are out be sure to get on it, I think it is really fun route but don't let your head get to you when clipping the chains, but overall great route.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 6, 2010

the second bolt is in kinda poor shape at the moment...
By S. Neoh
Jul 6, 2010

Lee,
Bad bolt/sleeve or spinning hanger?
I remember several spinners on this route when I last climbed it (in 2009).

Speaking of spinner, is the 7th or 8th hanger on Flesh still
on the bolt? I remembered someone replacing it last year because it had fallen off!

Thanks,
-SNeoh
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 7, 2010

didnt look super close but the hanger was spinning, the hanger looked bent and the bolt looked a little funky like more threads were exposed than should be...
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Jul 7, 2010

This bolt is a wedge bolt and has no sleeve so it cant come out. The nut must be loose. If I get a chance I will check it out and fix it.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Apr 7, 2012

Not my favorite of the Meadows climbs, but I'm sure with a lot of work it could be made less awkward. As an onsight, it was terrible and pumpy to work through and into the groove. I did enjoy several of the moves in the middle to end of the groove. Any fun I had was over-shadowed by the ledge fall potential from the anchor, the wet start and awkward moves into the groove.

As for clipping the anchors, I have never said the words "clipping, take, and ready to lower" in such quick succession. It went something like "CLIPPI-TA-READY TO LOWER!"
By S. Neoh
May 3, 2013

There is an anchor clipping jug at the very top of this climb, higher than the anchors, and about 18 inches to the right. I did not find any of the moves particularly awkward. The start is tricky when wet which is often the case in the Spring and Summer.
By Jacob24042
Jun 17, 2013

I liked this climb a lot. I had to scramble through mud and pause to dry my shoes for a while but once I got on it, there was some really great climbing.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 1, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

All the bolts are rock-solid on this route as of July 2013. There are no spinners or anything like that. Also, the correct name of the route is "Rhinobucket." It's singular—there's only one bucket shaped like the horn of a rhinoceros on the route. Climbing up the small dihedral to the rhinobucket is fun, but the hard part is the steep face climbing at the top of the route and then the big reach to the left to clip the anchors. Dicey!
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Jan 18, 2014

The route name is Rhino Bucket, not Rhinobuckets, it is named after the rock band Rhino Bucket.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 18, 2014

fixed