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This is an overlooked route. I really enjoyed it and it was different and out of character for Eldo. The black corner here is not "dirty" it's in fact a hard patina!
This route lies in the obscure Kashmir area. It is best found by passing the Cirque of the Cracks, landmarking via the last obvious corner, "The Formula" (fixed pins and a fixed wire) continue up the hill and right to an obvious black corner with a steep "tips" crack section 7 meters up.
Climb the corner on good holds and good moves with good gear (small Aliens or similar), passing the 5.10a crux to a good rest before finishing on decent jams and larger gear.
Finish up and right to a huge tree with a sling and ring (just replaced). Rap to descend.
A standard light rack with some 0.3-0.75" cams.Overhead pro for the crux sequence, finished with the pro at knee level. Sewn up if desired.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Dec 3, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
This climb looks junky, but it actually has good moves. It is worth doing once for sure.
|By Sarah Meiser|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 24, 2012
BEWARE THIS IS NOT A G RATED CLIMB! Sure, you can "sew it up" before pulling the crux moves, BUT even though the placements may look good, they're not necessarily going to hold a fall. My partner took an 18 foot groundfall when all 3 pieces he placed up there blew from a minor slip at the crux. A somewhat blindly placed nut in the crack at the top of the small roof and a small, purple Metolius cam that looked like a textbook placement blew immediately from the 1-2 foot fall (these pieces were at chest/stomach level, the nut may have slipped out from the top as he was pulling the moves?, not sure what happened with the cam). Then a blue Alien in the good crack about 5 feet below only held for a fraction of a second before blowing as well. From the looks of that piece, we suspect the rock failed, not the cam. Miraculously my partner was OK after landing on a rock on his head at the base of the climb. His helmet saved his life no doubt. Very lucky.
|By Clint Locks|
Apr 28, 2013
Consider Sarah's comments before launching off, but I thought this climb offered quite good protection. Really fun! The final few feet was all loose rock and steep duff. Barely worth noting, though, since that's the norm for all the Kashmir-area pitches.