Rey Araguato (Araguato King)
||Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Eric Deschamps, Meghan Ryan and Luis Cisneros|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||mid December to late March |
|Page Views: ||1,998|
|Submitted By: ||Luis Cisneros on Aug 18, 2009|
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Porters and guides leading us on the approach. Ar...
An excellent and adventurous climb over steep and good rock. A few loose rock spots are encountered, but they are short and easy to pass.
Some wild pitches negotiate the big overhangs.
Pitches one through six are phenomenal, while pitches 7 and 8 are a bit vegetated, still fun, and allow passage to the summit.
P1 - 5.10a, 50 meters. Climb up the chimney system. It is cleaner to start on the right side, under a big crack/chimney and traverse left on horizontal cracks on the face into the main chimney that goes up. Once there, move into chimney for a few feet and step over the left face following features and ledges on the wall. Move right behind a little tree on a ledge and then up towards a short finger crack. The pitch crosses Jardinero route line and finishes on a big ledge system with an obvious crack starting from it. Move up on ledges until you find bolted anchors. The climbing is mostly easy except for a couple of short 5.10(-) cruxes. Smalls and up to #3 BD cams.
P2 - 5.11c, 50 meters, bring the big cams! Follow the crack system directly above the belay. Pass a bit of loose rock and continue up. Briefly step left and out of the crack at a small overhang, climbing up and quickly rejoining the crack. Place the best gear possible and continue. After the larger overhang, continue up and left to the bolted anchor.
P3 - 5.11b, 40 meters. Wild Pitch! follow the dihedral up to a large ledge. BE CAREFUL, some loose blocks can be found in this part, but the rock is good. Step right on the ledge and move up on face moves to a wide horizontal crack, and traverse back left to the corner. Move up a few feet to clip a fixed pin. From here the pitch traverses right for about 35 feet over the edge of a big roof, The Diamond Roof, onto a Flying Alcove. Big cams are needed to protect the end of the traverse. There are bolted anchors on the right side of the Flying Alcove (also used for the descent), but it’s a better idea to set gear anchors on the left side to avoid vicious rope drag (and take pictures of your partner!).
P4 - 5.10b, 35 meters. Up into a dihedral, then traversing right into another dihedral. Continue into slightly overhanging rock where you transition into black rock and some vegetation. Trend up and slightly left, to a gear belay in an alcove. NOTE: Pitches 4 and 5 can be linked.
P5 - 5.10a, 15 meters. Up and trend left to horizontal cracks. As you near the huge roof, traverse left to a weakness allowing passage to the bolted belay just below the huge roof.
P6 - 5.9, 40 meters. Traverse left on ledge and up some huge Balanced Boulders, climb on them to find a pin around the corner. Climb straight up here on steep and good black rock (this is Jug-land!). Follow the good rock up to good ledge right under another one which is densely vegetated (and seemly impossible to climb to). Traverse 5 meters left to bolted anchor.
P7 - 5.10a, 30 meters. Jungle Pitch. Move right a few feet from anchors and find a tree to yard on! (J2 move if you know what that means). Mantle up the vegetated ledge and go up on a clean slab. Find your way left into a wide crack (o.w.), go up and then keep moving left for a few more meters to a ledge with several “Tepui Chicken Heads”. You can belay here or keep climbing to the summit. Can be linked with next pitch.
P8 - 5.9, 20 meters. Step left from the belay into the dihedral. Climb the dihedral, following weaknesses to a big sloping ledge near the top of the wall. Create a gear belay. From the top of pitch 8, belay a climber across the traverse right and up to the small cave. You can scramble to the summit from here...
Descent: BEWARE!, rapping down this route is tricky. Please read this very carefully: All rappels require 2x60m ropes. 1 Rappel off of bolts to belay #6. 2 Rappel to the end of the traverse on Pitch 6, build an anchor using gear and the fixed pin at the edge of the roof. 3 Belay and traverse to the anchor for Pitch 5. 4 CAUTION!!! This rappel must be executed correctly to ensure that you can reach the next anchor. Trend down and right, past the alcove used as a belay for Pitch 4. Continue down and right, making SURE to reach the the exit of the overhang on Pitch 4, at the right edge of big roofs. Rappel down to the end of pitch 3. **Using directional on this rappel is highly recommended, they can be removed by the second once the rappel ropes are anchored to the bolts. 5 A wild rappel brings you to a ledge. Traverse left to a bolt and pin (this anchor is part of Gardener) 6 Rappel to the top of the tower, clip the fixed line, and down climb left to the anchor for pitch 1. 7 One more rappel to the ground.
Approach the wall using the standard trail for the classic Jardinero de Grandes Paredes. You will arrive at the wall at a small tree and chimney system, which is the start of Jardinero. Step down and continue climber’s trail right for about 10 meters, where you will find a second chimney system. This is the beginning of Araguato King.
Good and safe natural protection is possible at all times. Several pins were placed on pitch three, the only place where natural protection was less than optimal.
Most anchors are bolted (see topo).
Gear list: set of nuts, double set of cams up to BD #3, a #4 and a #5.
From: Casa do Cacete
Oct 2, 2009
Nice work guys!
By Eric D
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Contact us through MP if you want a high quality topo file.
Jun 8, 2010
Thanks for adding this destination! It looks like a great adventure. Also the route desription is very detailed. Thanks for adding it to the database.