The opening move makes this route worth doing, pull the v0 move up the lip onto the face, pull the small roof (crux) and take the left leaning flared crack to a tree anchor or walk off.
Starts on the obvious lip just 10 feet left of dog pounder.
mixed, bring a small finger sized rack
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
May 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In the adk rock guide they say heading right is easier. The lip seemed stout hitting it directly and the right is fun, so it begs the question why anyone would want to head up the lip at the second bolt directly. With the right side ascent this eases the grade to maybe 10a, and with the rest of the route being closer to 5.8 I think it actually increases the overall experience of the climb (instead of one uber hard move in the middle of moderate climbing).
After pulling the first moves to the first bolt, you can step left a few feet to a good crack that's 5.8 if you don't want to do the 5.10 moves. Once about 15 feet up to a ledge, step right to rejoin the original bolted line to the top anchor. The top is tough for 5.8 but doable with some good jamming technique.
|By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady|
Feb 28, 2013
Merely the move off the ground through the horizontals make it worth it and the moderate climb via crack and coffee table sized ledges are icing on the cake.