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 ADVANCED
Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alfredo Marciel S 
As de Espadas S 
Cavalo Louco T 
Chamine Stop T,S 
Coringa S 
Costao S 
Lagartao T,S 
Revolta dos Gravatás T 
Secundo Costa Neto T,S 
Via do Totem T,S 
Via dos Italianos S 
Waldemar Guimaraes (Waldo) T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Revolta dos Gravatás 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Season: Any
Page Views: 524
Submitted By: David Trippett on Nov 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Description 

"Guia da Urca" has the details and topos for this route and many others and is available on-line or in Rio.

Revolta is typically approached via As Lacas, making for an 8-10 pitch route but there are other options.

Revolta is a stunning and very steep, sustained flaring thin hands and finger crack that contains few rests. The crux is right at the end, and is unprotectable for 2-3 meters until the chains and the last couple bits of gear may be suspect. The position is spectacular and the climbing engaging and technical.

Due to the very overhanging nature of this route, retreat is difficult, but not impossible with one rope.

Location 

The route is on the west face of the Totem.

To find the start walk up through the forest below the Totem and walk along the base to the start of "As Lacas"....but there are several options for approach pitches. Descend via the cable car.

Protection 

Stoppers, Double cams from green alien to #2 camalot, draws and slings.


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