Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
5. Children's Crusade Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beelzebub Corner, The T 
Boy's Brigade T 
Children's Crusade T 
Dress Left T 
Eliminate, The T 
Problem Child T,S 
Reign of Dykes T 
Reign of Fire T 
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 

Revolt of the Dike Brigade 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: spring and fall
Page Views: 660
Submitted By: Casey Bald on Sep 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
first pitch, first bolt

Description 

This is the first route to the left of the popular Beelzebub corner Look for three bolts on a steep face.

Pitch 1. Make interesting moves off the ground to the first bolt. Make even more interesting and strenuous moves to reach the second bolt. Next, move up and left making some awesome body tension moves to a jug and the third bolt. Traverse right and then back left to the anchors.

Pitch 2. Move up and left from the belay following a tricky left angling dike protected by pins. Move straight up a difficult slab to bolt protection to the end of the arch on Beelzebub, or you can move right after the last bolt and finish with the 5.9 crux on Reign of Fire
and belay from the bolt anchors on Loose Lips.


Location 

Directly after the Ethereal Buttress, left of the Beelzebub corner.


Protection 

Small to medium cams and nuts, quick draws, and a couple of shoulder slings to reduce rope drag.



Comments on Revolt of the Dike Brigade Add Comment
Show which comments
By Gabe13
Jun 21, 2009

Guidebooks give this an R which it no longer deserves. Quite a bit harder if you're 5'8" or less though...

Between bolt #2 and #3, staying left of the fall line is very balancy, moving right of the fall line is more reachy and strenuous. Choose your own adventure!

By burlap submariner
Oct 4, 2009

gabe, guidebooks give it an R rating because on the first ascent Ed Webster placed two pitons on the lead on the first pitch flake, then pins were removed for a number of years until the route was re-bolted. The crux is well protected but getting to the third bolt is a little heady.