Climb the crack right of "Pole Position" to a bulge. Pull the bulge via shallow finger jams. Spooky face moves lead to a ledge.
Pro to 1.5".
|By vincent L.|
Mar 2, 2008
it is possible to top rope this route if your belayer hangs out in the tree about twenty feet up via some easy scrambling, you can do this with a 60M rope.
|By Graham Roff|
May 4, 2009
A fun route, with an easy bottom half and interesting top portion with thin crack and balancy face moves. The 5.10 section is very short.
Apr 2, 2010
If you only have one rope, don't rule this climb out. There are a few options to reach the ground:
1) Rap to the small tree, then once more to the ground. (Not recommended. The tree is small and a loner on this face and too many raps from it would mean it would die before long.)
2) From the tree at the top, rap a short distance then tension over to the tree at the top of Lieback, and Uncle Fanny's Pantry. You kind of have to claw your way over, but it works. Then rap to the ground.
3) Most people are unaware that from the tree at the top, you can walk off to the right. It gets thin but there are just enough edges to allow a step into Aunt Fanny's Pantry. Look for the chains at the top of Jacob's Latter(.10c) and the right slanting, splitter, finger crack Shomer Shabbat(.7). One 60m just reaches the ground.
|By Floyd Hayes|
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This climb is very well protected until the top. A nut or two can be slotted beneath the crux mini-roof. Save a few medium-sized cams for the mini-roof and crack above (I used a #3 Metolius cam in the roof and a #6 Metolius cam high in the crack above). From the fixed pin there is about 12' of 5.8 face to the next pro, but this can be easily bypassed by traversing about 20' left on a narrow (1-2") ledge (about 5.5 but no pro) to the top of Church Bowl Lieback. If taking the traverse option, scramble up to the next tree to belay so the follower can't pendulum into the corner of Church Bowl Lieback.
Jan 21, 2012
FA: unknown, by 1982
|By Albert M. Lutton|
Mar 3, 2012
I led this route in the mid 80's, and after the physical crux thin roof, the psychological crux was the very thin face above. There was a 1/4" bolt stud sticking out about an inch, and I slipped the wire
of a #1 Chouinard Stopper over the stud, and snugged it up. Put a long
sling on it and led past. The face above the roof is about 20' to the belay. Excellent climb !!!!
|By David Rivers|
Aug 2, 2012
Great climb that needs more ascents. Leaves, dirt collect in the crack detracting somewhat from the climbing. I thought the crux was pretty powerful over the bulge w/funky pin scar layback and smears for feet. Freaked out and hung and then pulled moves once I'd settled down. It's all there and pro is good. There is a pin and new bolt above the roof plus placements, but still heads up climbing after crux proper.