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Reverso 4 and Twin/Double Ropes
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By Kar Red
Nov 5, 2012

Has anyone used the Reverso 4 for 8.1 twin/double ropes? What do you think? How was the rappel? Smooth and controlled? Or scary, fast and hand-burning.

Thanks!


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Nov 5, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

I have not used a Reverse 4 with 8.1 ropes, but a little trick to add friction to a rappel is to add several 'biners to your set up. Clip them through the rope and the keeper wire on the device but not your belay loop.


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By Superclimber
Nov 5, 2012

I have 8.1mm PMIs and a Reverso 4. Works fine for belaying off your harness or autoblocking off the anchor. I had no issues rappelling with it, but I guess you can add friction with another biner as mentioned above if needed. The Reverso works well with my skinnies and my 9.8, but not so great with fat ropes like 10.5mm. It's sort of a bitch to thread it with fat ropes and an even bigger bitch to pay out rope while belaying.


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By Mike
From Phoenix
Nov 5, 2012
Doing the jump-across off The Mace.  I never get tired of this climb.  Photo by Wednesday Hugus.

It works fine rappelling in high-friction mode. If not just add more friction and/or use a glove. I have even done a few single rope simul-rappels on 8.1's and it went OK with an extra 'biner in the system.


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By bearbreeder
Nov 6, 2012

also if you extend the rap of a leash it gives you better braking IMO ... if yr really worried use a prussik


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By Josh Wood
From Oneonta, NY
Nov 6, 2012
hotlum / bolum route on Shasta

I've used the reverso 4 with Mammut phoenix 8.0mm ropes without any issues.


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