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Reverso 4 and Twin/Double Ropes

Original Post
Kar Red · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 0

Has anyone used the Reverso 4 for 8.1 twin/double ropes? What do you think? How was the rappel? Smooth and controlled? Or scary, fast and hand-burning.

Thanks!

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265

I have not used a Reverse 4 with 8.1 ropes, but a little trick to add friction to a rappel is to add several 'biners to your set up. Clip them through the rope and the keeper wire on the device but not your belay loop.

Superclimber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 1,310

I have 8.1mm PMIs and a Reverso 4. Works fine for belaying off your harness or autoblocking off the anchor. I had no issues rappelling with it, but I guess you can add friction with another biner as mentioned above if needed. The Reverso works well with my skinnies and my 9.8, but not so great with fat ropes like 10.5mm. It's sort of a bitch to thread it with fat ropes and an even bigger bitch to pay out rope while belaying.

Mike · · Phoenix · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,615

It works fine rappelling in high-friction mode. If not just add more friction and/or use a glove. I have even done a few single rope simul-rappels on 8.1's and it went OK with an extra 'biner in the system.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

also if you extend the rap of a leash it gives you better braking IMO ... if yr really worried use a prussik

Josh Wood · · Oneonta, NY · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 15

I've used the reverso 4 with Mammut phoenix 8.0mm ropes without any issues.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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