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Revenge of the Rock Gods 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,285
Submitted By: Mike fenice on May 23, 2006
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Mike at the crux

Description 

This is an excellent route located 30 feet to the right of Spaghetti Western that climbs the shallow but obvious right-facing corner and breaks from fingers to hands within the first 30 feet.

Start by climbing up the broken band off the ground and placing gear from the ledge, a yellow TCU and red alien should do! Work through the fingers and off fingers section and either jam or layback the green camalot section for 15 feet. The climbing remains physical to the top.


Protection 

Double up on the 1.5 & 2 friends or bring two green camalots for the crux. You will also need a red alien for the start of the fingers section and hand size gear, 3-3.5 for the top.



Photos of Revenge of the Rock Gods Slideshow Add Photo
Mike pulling out of the crux
Mike pulling out of the crux
The route begins a few feet below the bottom of the photo will easy 5th class climbing to gain the crack.
BETA PHOTO: The route begins a few feet below the bottom of th...
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By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 2, 2007

While pulling onto the ledge at the anchors, my buddy's foot slipped, sending him on a 35-40 foot shit-yur-pants whipper ending over halfway down the route. Moral of the story? Don't run it out while trying on brand-new shoes.

By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 11, 2007

I thought the crux on this route quite burly. I remember doing it after Coyne Crack Simulator and thinking it was twice as hard. Aaah, the Creek... I propose a new grading system: "hard", "very hard", and "sadist". That should pacify the grade-chaser in all of us.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

short but cool route. easier than steve's to the right.