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 ADVANCED
d. Strictly - Shockley's
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anguish T 
Armadillo's Delight T 
Calisthenic T 
Epiclepsy TR 
Gaston T 
Glypnod T 
Gorilla My Dreams T 
Grim-Ace Face T 
Hi Coroner! T 
High Corner T 
Midnight Cowboy T 
Nemesis T 
Oscar and Charlie T 
PR T 
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 
Ribs T 
Ruby Saturday Direct T 
Shockley's Ceiling T 
Simple Ceilings T 
Splashtic T 
Strictly From Nowhere T 
Travels With Charley T 

Revenge of the Relics 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 2 pitches, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1991, Ivan Rezucha and Chris Monz
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Tony Lopez on Apr 5, 2014

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Description 

Pitch 1 5.9 PG, 50'
From SethG: "This is not a bad little lead. The crux bulge is just fifteen feet or so off the ground so it is easy to scope out. There is great gear at the bucket hold beneath the crux. After a few reachy moves between poor crimps it is over. The pro is spaced for the rest of the way to the tree but the climbing is easier."

Pitch 2 5.10a PG, 60' (not recommended in the Williams guide)
From Ivan Rezucha: "The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right and back down to the Strictly's anchor (just above the Strictly's crux)."

Williams has it join Travels with Charley after the overhangs and mentions a 5.9 R section.

Location 

On arÍte between the Oscar's corner and Strictly.

Protection 

Std. rack, yellow alien


Comments on Revenge of the Relics Add Comment
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By SethG
Apr 10, 2014

This is not a bad little lead. The crux bulge is just fifteen feet or so off the ground so it is easy to scope out. There is great gear at the bucket hold beneath the crux. After a few reachy moves between poor crimps it is over. The pro is spaced for the rest of the way to the tree but the climbing is easier.
By JSH
Administrator
Apr 11, 2014

As for the protection rating - a good belayer (ahem) can keep you off the ground.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
May 12, 2014

Description (and comments) are missing the crux second pitch. I've never found a reasonable passage, but the Grey Dick makes it sounds pretty heady: climb the bulging face and roof just left of Strictly's.
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 14, 2014

The second pitch is the climb. The described first pitch is just the approach. The second pitch starts from the left side of the Strictly's ledge and (as I remember) climbs up and left to the rounded arete between Strictly's and (?) the Splashtic face. It's a little dicey. I remember a small Tricam. At the roof the gear is good. You move right and over the roof a bit left of Strictly's. Above that the climb peters out with no interesting place to go, so, the few times I did it, we climbed right and back down to the Strictly's anchor (just above the Strictly's crux).