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 ADVANCED
The Christian Brothers
Select Route:
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Catherine Finds An Edge S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Unknown 10c S 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 

Revelations 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,414
Submitted By: ScottH on Mar 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (83)
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Fun climbing

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Revelations was the first fully bolted sport route at Smith, which makes it historic. Unfortunately age isn't everything, and this climb is like old creaky Uncle Sid. He shows up at the family reunions, he's a nice guy, you try to like him...but he's just a little bit too weird in the end.

Revelations climbs the bolted arete left of Barbecue the Pope. Pinch and tiptoe your way up the pebbley face, using the arete as you go. I found this climb to be a little insecure with some odd sequences between bolts-- and there's a lot of between bolts on this one. There's probably no more run out than on most other Smith routes, but these pebbley slabs do something to my head.


Protection 

Bolts. It might not be a bad idea to place a nut on your way to the first one, which is high.


Photos of Revelations Slideshow Add Photo
Revelations
Revelations
Kathryn following Revelations
Kathryn following Revelations
Mycroft Smith post (mental) crux on this great route.  His waist is at the first bolt.
Mycroft Smith post (mental) crux on this great rou...

Comments on Revelations Add Comment
Show which comments
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Jul 11, 2010

I didn't mind this route. I think it must have had a lot of loose rock in the beginning, but now is not bad. Getting to the first bolt may be intimidating for some new leaders.
By CTYankee
Aug 4, 2011

The first step is interesting for short, inflexible people. The start is intimidating for old leaders, too. Once the first bolt is clipped, it is fun.
By Eric Fjellanger
May 8, 2012

I don't understand why the first bolt is so high off the ground, it seems about 25' up, a fall from there would be disastrous. Much worse than Barbecue the Pope.
By another Chad
May 8, 2012

"I don't understand why the first bolt is so high off the ground, it seems about 25' up, a fall from there would be disastrous."


As stated in the route description above, there's a place for a nut before the first bolt.


Chad
By Zak Krenzer
From: Maple Valley, WA
May 6, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My stick clip didn't reach the first bolt. A #8 BD nut protects the leader pretty well. Place about half way between the deck and first big left hand jug.

One of my favorite routes at smith!
By Bryan Hall
From: Bend, Oregon
Jul 25, 2013

Yep, bring your nuts for this one. The first bolt is scary for sure. I'm comfortable onsighting 10's on sport and trad at Smith but didn't enjoy the journey to the first bolt. Once it's clipped you'll enjoy the run to the anchors.
By Ed kelly
Sep 11, 2013

It's true that the first bolt is scary high, broken ankles would probably be the best case scenario. The climbing to it is only about 5.7 though. A nut or small cam is recommended. I placed a bomber #2 mastercam at about 15 feet for peace of mind. Fun climb with sporting but reasonable runouts the rest of the way up.