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Reveil Matin 

Reveil Matin 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Season: Spring to fall
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Amadeus on Dec 23, 2011
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BETA PHOTO: View of the route with a follower climbing

Description 

This is the easiest multi pitch route at Chonkurchak. Its a nice introduction to multi pitch climbing since its fairly easy and has a gentle slope to it. Really just a nice climb! Be careful of the approach. Its full of slippery gravel bits and thorn bushes.

Pitch 1: This is the longest pitch of the three. You will need 9 draws. It ends at a nice big ledge with belay anchors in a good spot. This might also be the hardest of the three pitches (probably based mostly on length rather than difficulty).

Pitch 2: This is a really short pitch. Only 5 or 6 draws needed here. The route goes left a bit and goes up the arete for a few metres before heading back right to the belay station. This belay station isn't great, but it could be worse. It is nearly a hanging belay. Hope your harness is comfy!

Pitch 3: This pitch is longer than the 2nd but still shorter than the 1st. You will need 7 or 8 draws. Half way up the pitch there is a big metal post (old rappel station) sticking out of the rock. This is not the end! I wouldn't trust that rusty thing anyways... You'll pass through some thick vegetation near the metal post for a bit and then be back on rock soon enough. The belay station is at a great spot for standing, but you'll never be able to see your partner (or hear them either).

It looks like there might be a way to walk out the top, but I don't know for sure. Rappelling down is the fastest way to get back though anyways.

Enjoy!


Location 

Only route in area 3


Protection 

pitch 1 needs 8 draws
pitch 2 needs 5 draws
pitch 3 needs 7 draws



Photos of Reveil Matin Slideshow Add Photo
At the first rappel belaying up our fourth climber.  This is a nice big ledge that can comfortably fit 4 people.   The second belay is NOT big enough for all 4...
BETA PHOTO: At the first rappel belaying up our fourth climber...
All four of us at the top.  Took a while, but was a great climb.
All four of us at the top. Took a while, but was ...
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