2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This 2 pitch sport route starts about 40' up and left of the Bitty Buttress route, as if starting on A's Jax, staying right, out of the unpleasant dihedral. Facing almost due south, it gets lots of sunshine and is somewhat protected from westerly winds.
Pitch 1: 5.11a, 90', 9 bolts. Start with 3 bolts on the slab/fin right of the dihedral, then stem left across the corner onto a steep wall, hitting an unusual crux at bolt 5. A nifty slab (.9-) takes you up to the anchor. This is an excellent pitch all by itself. It's probably best to follow rather than lower.
Pitch 2: 5.12a/b, 45', 6 bolts. Some 5.9 leads up to the 4th bolt where a height-dependant move is encountered (harder if under 6' tall). An interesting sequence sets up the crux toss at bolt 5. This pitch is fairly steep but not overly powerful--some thoughtful, technical movement is required to "send". Though it's a reasonable redpoint, without tic-marks or beta the onsight should deliver that special 5.12 feeling.
My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is a nifty way to link up two slabs that get you to P2, which would otherwise have a rotten approach. In its own right P1 is a blast and entails some nice thin slabbing with a tough mantle in the link up. It looks like it needs some brushing, but while climbing that seemed insignificant. P2 is the meat, and I won't give anything away. It has two cruxes, as Mark indicated. The lower crux will be very height dependent. I hung off the jug at the end of the first crux and could just graze my toe on the spot used to launch the move. If you are 6' 5", it might feel 5.10, if you are 5' 7" it would feel like 5.14. There are two solutions, but the short person variation will certainly come at higher than 5.12a/b. The second crux is what it is, either you do it or you don't. It's a nifty and very technical dyno, a brief, perfect althletic moment (or perhaps several attempts at a brief, perfect athletic moment). Nice addition. Solid rock. Well protected. And it gets good early sun.
My first try on Return to Sender left me with the following impression. P1 is 5.8 to a dirty corner that involves a somewhat dangerous "behind your back" clip that transitions you to the next slab after one or two steep moves on very questionable rock. From here, make easy moves on loose, dirty rock (careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody) and encounter one move of 5.11a followed by low angle 5.7 or 5.8 slab to the first set of anchors. P2 features a nice variety of "snappy" "hollow" crimpers and flakes all poised brilliantly on a Volkswagen-sized block that looks like it could break away from the wall entirely with the right amount of conviction. The crux will catch your attention indeed, not so much by the "wild move" that has been advertised but more so by the sloping ledge that you may or may not strike if you happen to miss. A few more awkward throws gets you to the final set of anchors which consequently are guarded fabulously by a choice selection of football to microwave size blocks. Again, be careful not to pull anything down and kill somebody. Enjoy!