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 ADVANCED
Sphinx Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Crack T 
Cheops S 
Crunch, The T,TR 
Exit Stage Right T 
Joint Venture T,TR 
Lickety Split S 
Locksmith, aka Dihedral Route T 
Return to Forever T 
Slug AKA Summit Route 1960, The T 
So Honed Yet So Stoned S 
Sphinx Crack T 
Talus Food Crack T 
Thinner T 

Return to Forever 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bruce Morris & Eric Weinstein 2/77
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Apr 24, 2002

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Bill Feiges on the 2nd ascent of the late Eric Wei...

Closed: Private Property - Sphinx Rock is on private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent route located uphill to the right from Sphinx crack. This crack is easy to find as it forms the opposite side of the Sphinx fracture. Surmount overhang 8' off the ground. Continue to second overhang (crux) and enjoy continuous but easier hands and finger climbing shortly after. Belay is not fixed so save a few 2" pieces for the top, a bodyweight belay could suffice.

Protection 

many stoppers and TCUs, single Camalots 1-3


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Return to Forever, a long time ago....note the coo...
Return to Forever, a long time ago....note the coo...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 27, 2008
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Apr 27, 2002

This route does not see much sun. A good summer climb for the afternoon.
By Bryson Slothower
May 16, 2002

This pitch is far more enjoyable with tape, those Pikes Peak crystals put a hurtin' on the hands. Hot Flashes is still waiting for the f.f.a. of pitch two; down climb the Sphinx Crack route....
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 13, 2002
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I thought the crux was pulling the first overhang. After that, the moves are straight forward, even if strenuous. I agree w/ Bryson that tape is a really good idea. A lot of the jams are flared, but you can get a good bite on the sharp crystals with some tape (or your flesh).

I thought the overall experience on this one was great, but the rock quality isn't tops.
By TBD
Oct 21, 2002

My opinion is that the first roof is mid 10. There are some sinker jams after one thin move. The next roof is very strenuous and feet are thin. I ended up doing a lay back/ high step into a flare in the crack to pull through it. I recommend and #4 and #5 ball nut for this section, a green alien helps as well.
By Caleb
Apr 21, 2003

Everyone told me that the first overhang isn't the crux, but I beg to differ. Bryson, you're right, I left some blood on that climb!
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I believe this route is called 'Return to Forever'.10d if on the redpoint, 11a on the onsight. First roof off the deck gets .10+.There is a great .75 at the crux if you know where to place it. Place gear well in the splatte crystals, to prevent them from pulling...

Awesome route, my 'first' .11 trad redpoint.
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 30, 2003
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

On the redpoint. Trick is to not plug up your jams with gear, and move quickly through insecure jams... probably general knowledge, but this climb is where it really made a difference for me.
By Dave
Aug 3, 2003

This is one of the better climbs in the platte. As a local resedent I spend a lot of time on it. The second roof is definitely the crux and the first roof, while hard is not. The first roof should be easy if you're tall, but if you're fifteen and 5'4" like me, you'll get it with a little examination and technique. Gear gets a little sketchy after the second roof, but if you're leading it and make it past the secound roof, the following 5.9/8 climbing should be nothing.
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Oct 7, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is the route that we named "Romantic Warrior" when Eric Weinstein and I did the FA back in March 1977. Thought this was in a magazine somewhere? We rated it 5.10d.Bruce MorrisBelmont, California
By Bruce Morris
From: Belmont, CA
Oct 7, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Maybe the late Eric Weinstein did name it "Return to Forever". He was into Chic and Stanley and all that fusion stuff during the late '70s.
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Sep 6, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Difficult climbing through the roof as I struggled and fell. #1-#3 Camalots. Tape is indeed helpful as this granite can get painful and nasty. Bring extra gear for the top as there are no anchors.
By Deaun Schovajsa
Aug 27, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route would get 4 stars if not for the poor rock quality above the 2nd roof. Still, fun climbing when it was open!