Interesting climbing, good rock, ideal location--all in all a fun diversion on busy weekends.
There is one hard, height-dependent move past the overhang. The grade only applies if you can reach the decisive handhold.
Located just downstream from the main wall. Look for an obvious pipe that sticks up from a ledge at mid-height. The climbing starts from a flat boulder above a small swimming hole.
(Interestingly, the first recent ascent was done without the benefit of bolts. From a stance below the overhang, the climbing rope was tossed up and over the pipe. In this way, a top rope was created for protecting the crux move. Purists should feel free to climb the route in this style ;)
Gear: tiny to 3/4" plus 2 bolts. Bolted top anchor with rappel rings.
|By Matthew Fienup|
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007
No record of any prior ascent was indicated in the guidebook, although this route was surely climbed back in the day. An aging sling was found around the pipe at mid-height and around a tree at the top of the wall. If anyone has any information, please share it here.
A direct start can be top-roped at about slabby-5.9.
|By Jeff Mahoney|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 30, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
A pink tricam and a number 7 stopper (and sling the pipe) pretty much sew this up. Traverse the lichen field and finish at the Waters anchor to milk a few extra feet. Can't really see this being more than one 5.8- move (regardless of height), though.
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Jan 22, 2010
I was asked if this was Speed Zoo, an unknown FA listed in my guide. I have no idea. Speed Zoo may have used the pipe for pro but it's pretty much impossible to say where the line actually went. It's not exactly historical significance so let's leave this as its own route unless someone speaks up.