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Retrospade 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom Armstrong, 1986
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 21, 2007
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Description 

Classic blunt arete climbing that is unrelenting and not so straight forward.

Climb just to the left the rounded arete shared with the start of Ten of Spades. balance your way up the vertical face using incuts and some high-stepping magic to gain the diagonal crack.

At this point place that #1 Camalot you toted along with you in the crack, and make some tenuous moves back up and right to gain the next series of crimps protected by several more bolts to the top where the angle lessens and the climbing becomes noticably easier.


Location 

On the right side of the cliff is the route Ten of Spades. This route climbs jsut to the left on the face.


Protection 

5 or 6 bolts and a #1 Camalot. chain anchors.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 11, 2009

There has been a fixed nut in the crack for a long time now so you don't have to bring the #1 mentioned in the description...

By Andrew Mertens
From: Hanover, NH
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

The nut's gone so bring the cam.

By S. Neoh
May 4, 2013

The FA'ist was told today that the nut is no longer there.