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RetroHang (temporary name)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Jim Belcer, Nate Arganbright, November 6, 2005 |
Page Views: | 1,034 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | jason seaver on Feb 7, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Access issue - Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.?
Details
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
I am not sure if it would have helped, but I wish we had reported this route four years ago. After a ground-up, all trad first ascent by Jim and Nate in the fall of '05, we returned this winter to find it adorned with bolts.
It's a great little line with steep, sport-like climbing on natural gear.
It's a great little line with steep, sport-like climbing on natural gear.
Location
This stout little pitch is located on the left side of the eastern-most, south-facing section of Subskull. Starting on its right side, it takes a leftward rising traverse through the obvious overhang and pulls the left end of the lip to some fantastic chicken heads and knobs.
Protection
Light rack including Aliens, a #2 or 3 Camalot, stoppers, and shoulder slings to tie off chickenheads. Jim and Nate found 8 pieces of gear in the overhang, including a bomber #2 or 3 Camalot just below the lip, and a perfect stopper right at the lip. We're hoping the installers of the two offending bolts in the center of the overhang will remove them on their own, but, if not, I guess we'll have to clean up their little mess for them.
Jim and Nate scrambled off left from the top of the knobby slab atop the overhang. No fixed anchor.
Descend by scrambling up and around to the East.
Jim and Nate scrambled off left from the top of the knobby slab atop the overhang. No fixed anchor.
Descend by scrambling up and around to the East.
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