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Retrobution S 
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Retrobution 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Habovstak
Page Views: 1,101
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 10, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Just before my handhold ripped.

Description 

This is the middle line of the new bolted lines just left of Unemployment Line. It starts on a lower face with 3 bolts, hits a ledge and then continues up the extremely chossy and mossy face. It ends at a hanging belay with only 5.7 or maybe 5.8 moves below you. The second pitch gets a little harder and then finally what you have been climbing 150 feet for... the 5.10a crux (trumpets sounding). It is a nice thin sequence, but 2 moves don't make a climb. Maybe, if it cleans up, and I don't see how, since I gave it such a bad rating, it will earn 1 star, but no more. Oh yeah, haha, I almost forgot, as I was working the crux, there came a most irritating creaking sound as my right hand decided to tug too hard on a cantaloupe sized handhold that ripped off on me. (Funny thinhg is that was the calmest 15-footer I have ever taken.) It looked solid, it felt solid, it even smelled solid. So anyway, wear your helmet (as Vince was), pay attention to falling cantaloupes and moss, and that 5.10a crux may have just gotten harder.


Protection 

Bolted all the way up with nary a space. 10 or so draws per pitch. 2 60 meter ropes are nice for the rappel.



Photos of Retrobution Slideshow Add Photo
Vince on the not so fun lead of the 1st pitch of Retrobution.
Vince on the not so fun lead of the 1st pitch of R...
Mid-to-west JHCOB wall, showing three routes put up by the crew from <a href='http://climbrock.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >climbrock.com</a>
BETA PHOTO: Mid-to-west JHCOB wall, showing three routes put u...
Comments on Retrobution Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Jul 17, 2010

The 3 Stevo bolted multi-pitch lines on this wall deserve more attention and certainly a better write-up. They are not loose, at least compared to other BCC routes and the belays and the climbing are excellent. Assembly Line, Retribution, and Predecessor will all provide entertainment and shady climbs in a great area. Additionally, you can't beat the approach.

By Chris Komlos
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Well protected climb, definitely no harder than 5.10a. Pitch 1 is 12 bolts to pretty good stance. Pitch 2 is 8 bolts to another semi-ledge. The belay stance from ground level is no fun, though, as the slope is rather steep.

Climbing was mossy and scattered with plants at times, but definitely some fun moves, especially pitch 2. Not the best quality of rock (seems chossy, although nothing actually moved or broke on me). A few good ascents should improve the route quality. Predissessor (5.10c route just to the left (see topo)) looked better, but we didn't get onto that line.

A good approach is to take the zig-zagging trail up the slate scree slope (still park at the 'Remnants...' sign) to the top of the talus. You'll see a steep wall with bolts and probably some hanging draws (not sure what that wall is or what routes it holds), move east down the wall to the start of Retrobution. Or you can just scramble up from below, but there wasn't much of a trail.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A nice sport multi pitch, but still chossy and lots of loose rock. Still very enjoyable however.