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 ADVANCED
Brown Cloud Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anti-viral T,TR 
Ark, The T 
Axis of Weasels T 
Baggins' Blunt Arete T,TR 
Big Dihedral T,TR 
Bolted Line S 
Brown Cloud Arête S,TR 
Bullet The Brown Cloud S 
Chimney T 
Crack T,TR 
Crack (2 left of Interface) T 
Crack (right of Interface) T 
Crack/Chimney T,TR 
Deck Chairs on the Titanic S,TR 
Interface aka Slab Left S,TR 
Iraqi Road T 
John Adams' Adams Apple T,TR 
Kid's Climb S,TR 
Killian's Dead T,TR 
Louise S,TR 
Louise Arete TR 
New River Gorge Homesick Blues S 
Of Sound Mind and Body T 
Old Roof Route aka Lemons, Limes, and Tangerines S,TR 
Pee Into the Wind T 
Pee on Dee S,TR 
Pee on Me T 
Protection From the Virus S,TR 
Punkin Puss & Mushmouse aka Bow of the Titanic S 
Retro-Crack T 
Right of Interface T 
Solo Route aka Life Raft TR 
Tenacious S,TR 
Thelma S,TR 
Thick Crust T 
Tiny Face T,TR 
Tiny Pillar TR 
Top Rope Face (aka Rising Passion) S,TR 
Unknown Crack T,TR 
Unknown Crack (Right of The Virus) T 
Unknown left of Left Slab T 
Unknown Route S 
Variation to The Virus T,S 
Virus, The S 
Volobee (aka Jolobee) S 
Wide Crack T,TR 
Windy Days S,TR 
Ypsilon T,TR 

Retro-Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown well before 2000
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,759
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Nov 6, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Brown Cloud Rocks - Retro-Crack.

Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the thin crack just left of the "Pee on Dee" bolts, remaining fiercely independent until throwing in a perfect hand jam on the left side of the roof and topping out just above the "Pee on Dee" bolt anchor.

An easier variation can be done by stepping left into the chimney at the roof (5.8).

I did a free ascent of this route using trad gear on 11/6/04 and named it "Retro-Crack" as a juxtapose to "Tony Bubb’s Little Stick".

Protection 

Three small cams and one small stopper to the bolt anchor of "Pee on Dee". Using the bolt anchor is a little awkward and you may want to take some medium cams and long slings to setup your own anchor.


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At the crux.
At the crux.

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