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This is the companion route to the left of Nosedive. I thought that this route was harder than Nosedive, but once you figure out the move it is not too bad.
P1: Follow a right-facing dihedral to the left of Nosedive to a small roof. The gear leading up to the roof and past the crux can be tricky. Once you make the hard move at the roof, the climbing eases off. Head right at the top, and join Nosedive at the 2-bolt anchor. Rap with one rope.
Gear to 2.5"
In the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Above the crux. (photo by Dave Merle)
Jeff Arliss underneath the crux
Nearing the top
Pulling through the crux
|By J. Nickel|
Jun 5, 2006
A great route! 5.10b, three stars, PG gear (a reasonably safe onsight lead). Not as sustained as Nosedive but with a harder crux.
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 16, 2007
I found this route to be much easier and less sustained than Nosedive, probably because I'm "short". There's basically one hard crank on a rounded crimp pulling over the roof. The rest is much easier. Great rock, but its getting pretty polished.
From: Chicago, IL
Oct 12, 2008
I found that my key piece of pro at the roof ate up the key undercling; it was a choice between a solid piece or good hold. Great route.
|By JASON A.|
Apr 27, 2009
the undercling isn't "key" there is a solid meat hook on the arete. this leaves the undercling open for a perfect yellow alien.
May 28, 2010
a .75 camalot fits nicely below the roof. It looks weird, but works well, leaving the undercling accessable and protected. my second gunks 5.10 onsight.
|By Tyrel Fuller|
From: Lakewood, CO
May 19, 2011
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
Today I watched Tommy Caldwell cruise it in completely soaking wet conditions.
Extra fun fact: He climbed it in approach shoes and no chalk.
Nov 15, 2011
I love this route. Super fun, sustained and great pro. Somehow this route gets rated a PG but Bunny to the left gets rated a G. I actually think it's the opposite. I remember being able to place as much pro as anyone could ever want on Retribution but I remember the pro on Bunny being kind of sketchy.
|By Simon Thompson|
From: New Paltz, NY
Nov 9, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b
Placed an odd-looking .75 behind the "rest jug" before the crux moves instead of placing pro in the finger pocket. Doing so made the crux much much easier. Above the crux the are a few good rests and then a tougher move(maybe 5.9 or so) to a good jug.
Also fell from a few feet above the .75 a few weeks ago and it held fine.