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Spanky's Playground
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Even Tide S 
Retreat! T 
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Retreat! 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Bruneau/Phil Stennett
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 85
Submitted By: David Bruneau on Sep 11, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Retreat! topo

Description 

This is a fun route, especially if you're sick of face climbs. It climbs the giant roof to the climbers right of the Breech Boulder. It is made even more fun by the fact that the beginning of the route is underwater even at low tide.

Wait until the waves draw back enough then quickly walk to base and perform a few slippery crack and layback moves (crux). Getting to the base may take few attempts. Dry your feet and climb this quickly widening crack into the slot to the ceiling. Take the path of least resistance right and up through the chimney/roof to the top. Remember to back-clean some pieces to protect your second.

Location 

To the right of the Breech Boulder, starts in a right facing corner.

Protection 

Standard rack from 0 mastercam to #6 camalot. Make sure you have a #5 and 6 or two #5's. Long slings to alleviate rope drag. Gear belay.


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On the FA
On the FA
Phil following
Phil following

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