Retirement Plan 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Mark Limage, Gary Sanders |
| Submitted By: | Jeff L. on Aug 21, 2006 |
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leading up the first pitch. I thought it was a goo...
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Description This is a new route up the canyon to the east of the black corridor. The first bolt is barely visible but trust me its right past the crack and you can get some gear below and in the crack. The first pitch is about 180 feet long with 5 or six bolts and the second pitch is about 110 feet long with about 5 bolts.
Location Before entering the Black Corridor make a right up the canyon and hike for about 200 yards. About 50 yards before the top of the canyon look up and left at a 300 foot face. Hike up to the base of the face and look for a right trending crack about 15-20 feet long. Start just below this.
Protection Bring a rack of nuts and TCU's to supplement the bolts.
further up pitch one. Both pitches take gear and h...
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| Comments on Retirement Plan |
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By Killing In The Name Of
Nov 23, 2011
| You know, it's the funniest thing; I've heard that bolts are manufactured and placed for life safety and PROTECTION, not as ROUTE-FINDING AIDS.
Man, this generation won't be happy until there are spray painted arrows pointing to every hold. Whatever happened to adventure and leaving the rock unchanged as possible?
Fuck this sport. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Nov 23, 2011
| Thank you, first ascentionists, for not overbolting this route and gearing this and every route to the lowest common denominator. Turning every route into a bolt ladder is not in the climbing community's best interest, nor is it a very aesthetic thing to experience. |
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 6, 2012
| A tip on finding the best approach - Hike up the canyon till you're about even with the left end of the Sandbox, then head up to the base of the route. With a little squinting, bolts are visible from the bottom of the route.
The first pitch takes a couple of gear placements then 5 bolts to a chain anchor. The second pitch has some gear placements, then three bolts, then a couple more final small gear pieces to a fourth bolt, which is really a directional for the follower, since the anchor is 15 feet or so to the right.
We used a couple of medium to large stoppers and smallish cams, up to a .5 Camalot.
Overall, it was pretty good climbing, with a few spots of slightly hollow sounding rock. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Feb 17, 2013
| Waah, waah, waah. I need more bolts to find the start, my eyes are lazy. I'm not suggesting that you need tampons or anything, but maybe some pink kleenex and preparation H would soothe that hurt butt? This sport is full of people that make jellyfish look hard. Good luck with that. |
By Killing In The Name Of
Feb 20, 2013
| You know, Mark, I know dozens of bald fat short guys that complain less about not having bolts for routefinding purposes than you. Enjoy slinging mud at strangers, crying for lowest common denominator standards, and generally not being familiar with the double digit difficulty that the rest of the world is climbing in their sleep while you attempt to rile a guy who gets laid more than your last ten years in a given week. I am Jack's total lack of interest in your gumby menstruations... |
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