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Retirement Plan T 

Retirement Plan 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mark Limage, Gary Sanders
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Jeff L. on Aug 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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leading up the first pitch. I thought it was a goo...

Description 

This is a new route up the canyon to the east of the black corridor. The first bolt is barely visible but trust me its right past the crack and you can get some gear below and in the crack. The first pitch is about 180 feet long with 5 or six bolts and the second pitch is about 110 feet long with about 5 bolts.


Location 

Before entering the Black Corridor make a right up the canyon and hike for about 200 yards. About 50 yards before the top of the canyon look up and left at a 300 foot face. Hike up to the base of the face and look for a right trending crack about 15-20 feet long. Start just below this.


Protection 

Bring a rack of nuts and TCU's to supplement the bolts.



Photos of Retirement Plan Slideshow Add Photo
further up pitch one. Both pitches take gear and have bolts. Watch your ropes when pulling. Nice short corner on pitch two.
further up pitch one. Both pitches take gear and h...
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By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Mar 6, 2012

A tip on finding the best approach - Hike up the canyon till you're about even with the left end of the Sandbox, then head up to the base of the route. With a little squinting, bolts are visible from the bottom of the route.
The first pitch takes a couple of gear placements then 5 bolts to a chain anchor. The second pitch has some gear placements, then three bolts, then a couple more final small gear pieces to a fourth bolt, which is really a directional for the follower, since the anchor is 15 feet or so to the right.
We used a couple of medium to large stoppers and smallish cams, up to a .5 Camalot.
Overall, it was pretty good climbing, with a few spots of slightly hollow sounding rock.

By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
May 24, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

fun route, after a spicy start (hence my PG rating) the climbing is mostly mellow, just have to remember to place some gear. After cleaning gear on the final pitch, get a lower and reclimb directly to the anchor. Way fun.