Type: | Trad, Sport, 2 pitches |
FA: | Gene Ellis, George Watson, Shirl Jones, 09/91 |
Page Views: | 939 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Moritz B. on Oct 19, 2013 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
Pitch 1: Ascend a slabby face and follow the bolt line. The climbing becomes tricky once you are getting closer to the roof. Get ready for some action. The face steepens, the footholds are crumbly and you are a good bit over the last bolt. Keep your shit together, and look for crimps once it is getting steep. Place pro in the undercling (I placed an orange Metolius) and layback/jam the crack (0.75 cam, good jams). Belay from atop the crack (bolted belay).
Pitch 2: Ascend more crumbly, steep slab and convince yourself this is fun. Overcome the runout after the third bolt (easier terrain, 5.8), and reach the tree. From there, follow a super easy crack (5.5), place some pro and reach a giant ledge. Belay from a bolted belay.
To reach the true summit, join the last pitch of Bishop´s Jaggers.
Pitch 2: Ascend more crumbly, steep slab and convince yourself this is fun. Overcome the runout after the third bolt (easier terrain, 5.8), and reach the tree. From there, follow a super easy crack (5.5), place some pro and reach a giant ledge. Belay from a bolted belay.
To reach the true summit, join the last pitch of Bishop´s Jaggers.
Location
Looking straight at The Dome you are prompted with two obvious roofs. The big main roof on the center of the dome and a smaller roof, with only one tree atop, to the left. Aim for the left roof on your approach. The route ascends the very left side of the roof. It is easy to identify since the bolts on this route are not oldschool (unlike its neighbors´ bolts). It is the route furthest to the left.
Protection
Good bolts, Standard rack up to #1. Bring a #2 if you plan on doing the last pitch of Bishop´s Jaggers (not mandatory).
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