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Routes in Right Wall
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Bio-fear S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finger Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fool's Gold S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nemosis S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Resurrection TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | Gabriel Crawford |
| Page Views: | 1,477 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Nathan Menge on Oct 24, 2011 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Access Issue: Private Land
Details
This popular climbing are is located on private land owned by a logging company. Climbers have climbed here for 30 years without issues from the landowner, however. Local neighbors have also been generally friendly. Please ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash, keeping noise especially at the parking to a minimum, and avoid blocking any of the roads with your vehicle. If the parking is full, go somewhere else, or park back down at the ball fields across breakneck road and walk the extra 5 minutes.
Description
Start down in the gap referred to as the grave.
Move up a deep flake to a high left crimp.
Now you are in the crux, bump off the matching, but lower quality, corresponding right crimp to a high quality high ledge. A fall here has a real chance of colliding with the boulder behind you. But when you succeed, the crux is over.
Move up into the big crack and work your way under, around and on to the large outcropping rock, called the tombstone.
There are several variations available, the most obvious being the crack next to the tombstone or you can pop out onto the face of the tombstone.
Climb up by any variation, on to a ledge.
From here work the toe pocket on the left and the pockets on the overhang face and top out.
Move up a deep flake to a high left crimp.
Now you are in the crux, bump off the matching, but lower quality, corresponding right crimp to a high quality high ledge. A fall here has a real chance of colliding with the boulder behind you. But when you succeed, the crux is over.
Move up into the big crack and work your way under, around and on to the large outcropping rock, called the tombstone.
There are several variations available, the most obvious being the crack next to the tombstone or you can pop out onto the face of the tombstone.
Climb up by any variation, on to a ledge.
From here work the toe pocket on the left and the pockets on the overhang face and top out.
Location
Route is located on the arete portion of the wall to the right of the right wall. (the righter wall)
Look for a tree bent over the rocks.
Look for a tree bent over the rocks.
Protection
There is very little close by to build a top rope anchor with. I use about 80 feet of webbing to build two anchor points as described below.
With your back to the climb, there is a short roughly 6" diameter tree a few feet back on the right, immediately above a cliff face.
To the left there is a trail leading down the hill, follow it around 60 feet and find a fantastic tree that is relatively free of thorns in its vicinity. Use this as a second anchor tree.
The belayer can anchor to the bent over tree that sits in the right wall area.
There is a dangerous fall from at the crux, where the climber could collide with the boulder behind him/her. During climb development we stuck a crash pad there, but it is possible to avoid with strong belaying.
With your back to the climb, there is a short roughly 6" diameter tree a few feet back on the right, immediately above a cliff face.
To the left there is a trail leading down the hill, follow it around 60 feet and find a fantastic tree that is relatively free of thorns in its vicinity. Use this as a second anchor tree.
The belayer can anchor to the bent over tree that sits in the right wall area.
There is a dangerous fall from at the crux, where the climber could collide with the boulder behind him/her. During climb development we stuck a crash pad there, but it is possible to avoid with strong belaying.
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